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ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC 

Narrow Fabrics 


By SAMUEL BROWN 






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Elastic and Non-Elastic 
Narrow Fabrics 


By Samuel Brown 

and a Chapter on Narrow Fabrics 
Made on Knitting Machines 

By William Davis, M.A. 

J i 


This book originally appeared serially in TEXTILE WORLD 
and has been republished in this form at 
the urgent request of many readers. 



BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO. 

TEXTILE PUBLISHERS 
334 FOURTH AVENUE NEW YORK 

jrJ 1 f y 2—3 jo 



T5nai 

.."Bn. 


Copyright 1923 
Bragdon, Lord & Nagt.e Co. 
New York 



©C1A777505 

MAR IE 1324 


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Elastic and Non-Elastic Narrow Fabrics 

t) 

Chapter I. 

«/ 

Growth of Webbing Business—Attempts to Substitute Cut Products for 
Individually Woven Webs Made on Gang Looms—Loom Setting 
to Reduce Vibration—Capacity of Looms and Explana¬ 
tion of the Various Motions That Are Employed 

W HEN we think of the discovery of rubber vulcanization and the effect 
it has had on world affairs our minds naturally turn to the big 
things, such as the automobile industry with its millions of rubber 
tires in constant use. These may crowd from our notice a thousand and one 
smaller things of importance. It is difficult to fully realize how many 
comforts and conveniences we derive from rubber and not the least among 
them is the multiplicity of woven fabrics which are used both for comfort 
and convenience in a variety of ways and for innumerable purposes. It 
is not only in such things as garters and suspenders, with which our minds 
may first associate elastic webs, that these fabrics are used, but they find 
employment in a variety of other products, which are growing more numer¬ 
ous all the time. Today there are in operation thousands of looms and 
braiders, in which many millions of dollars are invested and in the opera¬ 
tion of which, together with complementary machinery, about ten thousand 
people are employed. 

It was about the year 1840 when the idea of weaving threads of elastic 
in connection with other materials was first conceived. After long experi¬ 
ments this was accomplished in the very simplest form of weaving. New 
ideas were from time to time introduced, and new uses found for the prod¬ 
uct, until now it covers a large variety of both plain and fancy weaves, 
and the multiplicity of uses are so varied that few realize them who are not 
closely associated with the business. 

American Industry Started About 1860 

It was not until about the year 1860 that elastic web weaving Avas 
introduced into this country, although for a number of years previous 
England and Germany, and also France in a small Avay, had found here 
a market for their product, particularly in cords, braids and shoe goring, 
Avhich at that particular time was fast groAving in popularity. About 1860, 
a few looms which had been used, Avere brought over from England and 
located at Easthampton, Mass., and the manufacture of shoe goring com¬ 
menced. The rubber thread required Avas for some time imported from 
England. The business greAV rapidly, and factories Avere established in a 
number of cities, more particularly at Boston, LoAvell and Brockton, Mass. 
Bridgeport, Conn., and Camden, N. J. An unfortunate labor dispute took 
place about the year 1890, which deA’eloped into a long-draAvn out strike, 
ultimately precipitating friction betAveen the shoe trade and the goring 
Aveb manufacturers, which finally ended in a positive boycott of this prod¬ 
uct from which the trade has never recovered. Most of the looms which 
Avere up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and are 
now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics. In passing, it 
may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought from 
England 60 years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work along 
other lines. 


3 


4 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Attempts to Use Wide Looms 

Attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide 
looms, the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps 
at the front reed, at either side of which spaces binding threads were woven 
in. These narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to the 
different widths which might be required, and could easily be changed to 
meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads, inasmuch as 
the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth. 
Between these spaces, but at a point away from the weaving line, were 
arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite 
widths while it was being woven, and as it gradually passed by the knife 
edges. These knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new 
positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual 
strips. 

While this method was more economical than weaving individual webs 
in gang looms, the labor cost being much less, the narrow webs produced 
having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the individually 
woven webs had. And sometimes the binding threads would give way, so 
that the fabrics were not well received by the trade, and ultimately the 
demand for them died out. 

Attempts were made to supersede the individually woven strips in 
another direction by the use of two finely woven pieces of cloth, one to 
form the back, and the other to form the face of the goods, with an elastic 
substance mechanically stretched out and inserted between the two. These 
different parts were calendered together and afterward cut into strips of 
the desired widths. This method was not without many advantages. Strips 
of different widths were easily made without the costly method of redraw¬ 
ing the warps in the looms. An unlimited choice of both plain and fancy 
fabrics could be used, having if desired distinctly different appearances 
and constructions for face and back, and this alone opened up a wide range 
of possibilities. The finished cloth lent itself admirably to fancy emboss¬ 
ing and printing and to various other forms of elaboration. But somehow 
the trade did not take to it, and this also finally died out. 

The trade ultimately settled down to the weaving of elastic goods of 
all kinds, both plains and fancies, in gang looms, and the business has 
steadily grown ever since along these lines. 

Straight Shuttle and Circular Shuttle Looms 

The looms employed are very varied, inasmuch as the requirements 
cover a wide range and new uses are constantly arising with new demands. 
The simplest form of weaving is that employed on the making of webs 
such as are mostly used for garters, and which are also used for many' 
other simple purposes in nearly every household. These webs are com¬ 
monly known as loom webs, lisles and cables. They are generally made 
on plain, narrow, cam looms, some of which are capable of accommodating 
as many as 56 pieces or strips at one time. 

There are two distinct types of loom employed, one of which is known 
as the straight shuttle and the other the circular shuttle loom. In the 
former type, the straight shuttle, in traveling across the different spaces, 
takes up more room than the circular shuttle, and thus somewhat curtails 
the number of pieces which can be operated in the loom, limiting capacitv 
of production, and relatively increasing the cost. Very few of the straight 
shuttle looms accommodate more than 36 shuttles, according to the width 
of the goods required. The circular shuttles travel over a" segment of a 
circle and cross over each other’s tracks in their movement through the 
shed, as shown in Fig. 1. This permits the crowding of the pieces of web 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


5 



Fig. 1.—Circular Shuttle Webbing I.ooin 



A - Lav Be d D-Shuttle Rack G - Dkivinq Straps 

B - Lav Rack £-Shuttle H- Rubber Cushion 

C -Pinion F - Driving Pullet J - We er Space 


Fig. 2.—Rack and Pinion Movement for Actuating Shuttles 































6 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


closer together, so that many more can be accommodated in the same loom 
space than when the straight shuttle is used. This type sometimes runs 
as high as 56 shuttles to the loom. 


Prevent Loom Vibration 

These looms often are speeded as high as 180 picks per minute. To 
operate at this speed with so many pieces of web and make satisfactory 
goods, free from thick and thin places through irregularities of speed or 
variable momentum in running, a very heavy type of loom is necessary. 
They should be erected on solid foundations so as to eliminate all possible 
vibration. A solid concrete floor into which timbers have been properly 
set so that the feet of the looms may be securely anchored into them is the 
ideal way, but where this is not practicable at least heavy foundation tim¬ 
bers for anchoring the loom feet to should be arranged. The frames of 
the looms should be heavy; also the main driving shaft, which should have 
wide bearings so as to prolong the life of the shaft at the wearing points 
and obviate loose play in the boxes. 

The crankshafts must also be very heavy and there should be enough 
of them so as to rigidly withstand the repeated beat of the lav without 
liability to take on any loose motion, which would be fatal to the produc¬ 
tion of perfect goods. Weight and strength here is very essential, inas¬ 
much as it is not practical to get a direct line from the shaft to the lay 
on account of the harness movement, and they must be built to drop below 
the harnesses which form makes them subject to heavy strain at the beat 
of the lay. They should also be made adjustable, each arm having a heavy 
left and right threaded insert, so that the length of the weaving line may 
be changed to meet the varying requirements of different webs. They 
should also be constructed so that any wear may be taken up. 

The lay itself must necessarily be very heavy. It is generally con¬ 
structed of several thicknesses of timber of different kinds, so as to avoid 
any possibility of warping and shrinkage. The shuttles used are mostly 
made of applewood. While they must run smooth and be free from the risk 
of slivers they must at the same time be very light so as to be freely drawn 
across the multiple of web spaces. It will be easily seen that the drawing 
of so many shuttles over a space of about three times their length, at 
possibly 180 picks per minute, carrying and delivering the necessary weft 
to the webs, each thread of weft being checked to a certain extent by 
friction springs, requires great care and thought in construction. Shuttle 
wood must be thoroughly seasoned by age or it will not serve the purpose. 

The shuttles themselves are very ingeniously constructed so as to 
accommodate the greatest possible amount of filling, together with the 
necessary space for springs to properly manipulate the tensions. Each 

shuttle is bored through at either side so as to allow for the insertion of 

a fine recoil spring, which is made fast at one end of the drilled hole at 
the back of the shuttle. To the other end of the spring is attached a small 
porcelain eye, through which is threaded the weft, making it possible to 
govern and take up by the action of the spring the loose filling which is 
thrown off as the shuttle passes and repasses through the shed. These side 
recoil springs are not only useful for the taking up of the loose filling 

but allow for a variety of threading up methods, so as to assist in the 

governing of the tension of the weft at one or both sides of the web, 
and thus afford a means of weaving the goods level. They aid in correct¬ 
ing any tendency to long and short sided goods, of which we will say more 
later. 

At the back of the quill or shuttle spool is arranged another spring 




ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


7 


on which is swivelled a porcelain device which presses against the quill, 
and can be so regulated as to govern the tension. This spring is so 
tempered that the most delicate adjustment of tension can be made. 

Rack and Pinion Movement 

The shuttles across the entire width of the loom are drawn to and fro by 
what is known as the rack and pinion movement. (See Fig. 2). This method 
has pretty generally superseded the old-time plan of rise and fall pegs. The 
rack runs back and forth in a slot grooved in the top of the lay bed, A, the 
entire length of the loom. To the rack is attached leather straps G, or heav¬ 
ily woven fabric straps, with which the rack B is pulled to and fro at each pick 
of the loom. The rack is of wood, having rounded teeth spaced approximately 
one-third of an inch apart. Into the rack are meshed pinions C, two to carry 
each shuttle E, the teeth of which are correspondingly spaced. The rack is set 
into a wood carrier which is about one inch deep and one inch wide, and 
the full length of the lay. The pinions are made of either raw hide or 
paper fibre, and these pinions again mesh into a series of racks D, grooved 
in on the under side of each shuttle, and thus drive the shuttle to and fro 
across the web spaces J. 

The constant travel of the driving rack running in the groove at the 
top of the lay bed necessarily produces more or less wear at the bottom of 
the rack. It therefore is advisable to place underneath this rack a false 
bottom of wood of about ^-inch thick, which after becoming worn by 
constant use and contact with the ever-moving rack may be easily taken 
out and replaced by a new one, thus keeping the rack and pinions and 
shuttles at all times in proper mesh with each other. 

The rack is drawn backwards and forwards by the before-mentioned 
straps, which are passed over pulleys and are either fastened to the rack by 
means of wood screws, or securely locked with a metal clamp designed for 
this purpose. These straps are sometimes separated by a pair of cams set 
on a shaft making one revolution to each two picks of the loom. The 
power from these cams is first communicated to eccentrically-shaped wood 
pulleys, moving backwards and forwards, which a re so formed as to start 
and stop the shuttles slowly, and to operate them at a higher rate of speed 
during their passage through the middle of the shed. This movement is 
necessary to avoid a too early entrance of the shuttle into the weaving- 
shed before the harness is properly settled, and also to soften the hammer¬ 
ing at the close of its travel so as to reduce the wear and tear. 

It might be Avell to note here also that this hammering is also softened 
by the placing of a piece of soft rubber H at each end of the rack run, 
so that the rack strikes this soft cushion each time it goes home. While the 
cam method has been extensively used to produce the kind of movement 
most desirable for the travel of the shuttle, it has its drawback in the 
momentum produced, which it is often found difficult to control. 

The Crompton & Knowles Loom Works have designed a shuttle motion 
which effectively governs the desired speeds in the travel of the shuttles 
while they are entering, passing through, and leaving the shed, by a dwell¬ 
ing movement operated by a series of gear wheels and oscillating slotted 
rocker. It is absolutely positive in action and does away with the uncon¬ 
trollable and erratic movement so often met with in the cam drive. 

Movement of Harnesses 

Four-pick cams are all that are necessary to produce the plain webs 
which are used for ordinary purposes. However, it is not the practice to 
confine looms to the limitations of this capacity, but to put in either 8 or 




8 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 




Fig. 4.—Loom with Side Cam Method of Harness Control 



























ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


9 


12-pick cams. These, besides providing means to make the plain weave, 
open np possibilities for a number of other weaves and combinations of 
weaves, which add materially to the usefulness of the loom. 

There are two distinct types of cam movements used in looms of this 
character for the making of ordinary webs. One is known as the direct 
cam drive, where the cams are fitted on a 4 to 1 shaft, as shown in Fig. 3, 
which runs lengthwise of the loom and from which the power is communi¬ 
cated to the harnesses through a series of levers A, rocking poles B, levers 
C, and lifting wires to the harness D. 

The other movement is known as the end-cam method, where a small 
shaft is set at the end of the loom, running at right angles to the driving 
shaft (See Fig. 4) from which it is driven by bevel gears. On this short 
shaft are set the cams, usually 8 or 12 in number, which have a series of 
grooves at their center so as to afford means of timing them in different 
positions on a feather key which runs the full length of the shaft. These 
cams operate what is known as the cam jacks, which may also be seen in 
Fig. 4. 

The jacks are hung at the middle and are moved backwards and for¬ 
wards by the cams, communicating movement to the various harnesses. 
The harnesses are connected at both the top and bottom of the jacks. 
This connection at both ends of the jacks makes it possible to run the looms 
at a very high rate of speed, as there are no weights or springs to contend 
with, which limits speed. 

While the first described method of direct cams has some advantages 
over the end cams, such looms are not nearly so economical to operate as 
the end cams on account of the limited speed attainable. While the har¬ 
nesses are lifted by means of the cams they have to be pulled down by 
weights or springs. The means of shed adjustment, however, enables the 
attaining of a well graded shed. Furthermore, the cams themselves can 
be so set on the shaft as to afford means of timing the movements of the 
different harnesses so that excellent and easy shedding results may be 
obtained. But the one great disadvantage is the limitation of the weaves 
attainable, which limitation is largely overcome by the end-cam method. 

When the direct cam movement is used, and ivliere the goods being 
woven are of such a character as to demand a very slow speed of the loom, 
it is practicable to bring the harnesses down by weighting them with wide 
flat weights of the requisite size. But where higher speed is required than 
is advisable for weighted harnesses, springs are more desirable. 

The simplest form of pulling down the harnesses is by the use of floor 
blocks and direct springs. There is, however, a disadvantage in using the 
direct spring on account of the pull increasing until the extreme lift of the 
harness is reached, which necessarily increases materially the power ex¬ 
pended in operating same and makes an unnecessary strain. The better way 
is to use what is known as spring jacks, which have an easier pull than the 
direct spring inasmuch as the load eases off on the pull, diminishing from 
the greatest pull at the start to the lightest pull at the extreme lift on the 
lever, so that the load is uniformly distributed all through the movement 
and less power is employed. 



Chapter II. 


Looms Should Be Adapted to Make a Wide Variety of Goods — Take-Up 
and Let-Off Motions—Making the Rubber Warps for Different 
Classes of Web—Importance of Uniform Tension—Defects 
from Uneven Tension and Chafing of Threads 

T HE greatest care is necessary in planning out the details of the har¬ 
ness. On account of the great length it becomes necessary that every- 
tliing possible be done to avoid any chance of warping or sagging, 
for the least irregularity which may he developed will of course interfere 
with the evenness of the shed. The harness frames must be made of the 
very best stock obtainable, thoroughly seasoned, and absolutely straight 
grained. Each frame must be supported at regular and frequent intervals 
by stays or supports mortised in the runners. These stays are slotted at top 
and bottom to receive the lieddle bars and keep them accurately in line, 
and thus prevent them from catching on the neighboring harness during 
the operation of the shedding process. 

It is necessary also that the top and bottom heddle bars be accurately 
spaced so as to allow proper freedom for the heddles to ride easily on the 
bars, and thus avoid any binding of heddles which would have a tendency 
to crowd the warp stock together and prevent clearance of the shed. Steel 
heddles are preferable to ones that bend and twist more or less and get 
out of alignment. They are made from tempered steel which is very flexible 
and they have round cornerless eyes that cannot possibly catch or chafe 
the warp threads. They adjust themselves automatically to the frame and 
cannot twist or bend while at work, and are made to accommodate them¬ 
selves to every conceivable kind of goods. 

Install Looms for Wide Range 

In installing looms for narrow elastic fabrics it is advisable to make 
ample provision for creeling the warps necessary for the different fabrics 
which may from time to time be required. In the manufacture of the 
light single cloth garter webs, not more than two warps to the piece are 
required, a face warp and a gut warp, and the temptation to save a little 
in the initial cost possibly may suggest a limitation of creel spaces to 
immediate requirements. Added expense may seem for the time being an 
unnecessary burden. But very soon there may arise a call for other goods 
which cannot be made within the limitations of the two bank creel; there¬ 
fore changes become necessary which are generally much heavier than first 
cost would have been. 

Nothing less than a five bank creel should be installed Many times 
the availability of six banks has solved knotty problems of warp division 
to care for the various weaves and materials employed in some construc¬ 
tions. If the entire capacity of the larger creel is not required when first 
starting it will not be necessary to clothe all of it with levers, buttons, etc., 
which may be procured later. But by all means ample provision should be 
made for the full frame work and supporting rods for same: 

Take-Up Motion 

Another important consideration is to make proper provision for a 
leliable take-up motion, so that the goods may lie taken away from the reed 
while weaving without any liability to variableness. This liability was 
present in many of the earlier looms and exists in some of the mills 


10 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


11 


today. The old time fine ratchet gear, even when provided with a number 
of pawls, is always liable to erratic picking, which alone will ruin an 
otherwise perfect piece of goods and materially change the cost of manu¬ 
facturing. A slight irregularity of picking may not be discernible in non¬ 
elastic goods, which will be satisfactory so long as the variableness is not 
easily seen and a reasonable average of picks per inch is maintained. But 
in elastic goods, where the contraction takes place after they leave the 
press rolls, every irregularity is revealed and intensified so there is no 
room to take chances. The only safe way is to employ picking gears 
making one tooth to each pick of the loom, and then to change the gears 
when different picking becomes necessary. 

In many of the existing looms there has been no adequate provision 
made for the weaver to let the web back to the reed mechanically when a 
joining becomes necessary through the breaking of the filling while weaving, 
or where a quill may have run off unnoticed. It is almost impossible to 
make a joining satisfactorily without proper mechanism being provided for 
this purpose. In some of the slow running looms provision is made for 
this by the operation of each set of rolls independently (see Fig. 1), by 
means of the ratchet gear and pawl A and worm motion B. This plan 
has the one disadvantage of taking up too much space between the indi¬ 
vidual pieces. Where the fabric woven is say four or five inches wide, and 
the space will admit, it is all that can be desired, and the individually 
weighted rollers C associated with the motion are admirably adapted to 
variable pressure. 

For the very narrow elastic fabrics, which require considerable roller 
pressure to hold the web snug and firm while weaving, and where it is 
necessary to make very accurate joinings after a break has occurred, a better 
movement is one in which the web roll is placed on the main take-up shaft 
in the form of a sleeve. It is carried around by the shaft as it turns while 
the goods are being woven, but can be released and turned both backwards 
and forwards by a conveniently placed hand wheel, which operates a series 
of differential gears. This movement is entirely independent of the move¬ 
ment of the main take-up shaft drive. 

Tension on Rubber Warp 

To much importance cannot be attached to properly controlling the 
tension of the rubber warp. On its uniformity depends not only the 
quality, but also the cost of the web. The greater the weight of slack 
rubber woven into the web the more costly it becomes and the poorer the 
quality. A very accurate sense of touch is required in testing the tension 
of the rubber threads as they are being delivered into the goods. 

The rubber warp requires the highest possible tension before breaking 
or chafing of the thread takes place. Each rubber thread should be under 
this high tension so that when the goods come through the press roll the 
desired contraction will take place uniformly, and a flat piece of web will 
be produced that will have plenty of life. 

It must always be remembered that the individual threads of rubber 
which constitute a rubber warp will act as a series of small springs, work¬ 
ing in unison with each other. Each one should have equal power to con¬ 
tract the fabric at its own particular part. If any one of these strands 
or springs is chafed and weakened, it lessens the contracting power, and 
the result is that the weakened or less contracted part is of relatively 
greater length than the parts where the rubber threads have retained their 
full power. 

Moreover, the appearance of the goods will be spoiled by the chafed 
particles of rubber pricking through the face, particularly on the white 
and lighter colored goods. Before such webs can be mai’keted they must be 



12 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


subjected to a buffing operation to remove these dirty particles, which is 
accomplished by passing them over a highly speeded, cloth covered roller, 
which will remove the loose particles by friction and high velocity, tint 

this operation adds to the cost. . . , 

A high and uniform tension of the rubber warp is so important that 
most manufacturers keep men specially employed in the testing of the 
threads, instead of leaving this matter to the weavers. These tester^ acquire 
such a keen sense of touch that they can obtain very economical and satis¬ 
factory results. Talc or soapstone is freely used as a lubricant to reduce 
the risk of chafing and breaking' of the rubber threads.. The warps aie 




Fig. 2 .—Individual Rubber Warp 
Let-Off Motion 


arranged so as to allow the threads to pass through a bed of plush, loaded 
with talc, which adheres to the rubber threads and makes them work very 
smoothly. This is especially important in damp weather, which is the 
worst condition for the weaving of elastic goods. At times factories have 
stopped operations when the weather was especially humid. 

Let-Off Motion 

When we remember that the front reed will pass by the rubber threads 
possibly six or seven hundred times from their entrance into the shed to 
their reaching the leaving line, it is not to be wondered at that chafing is 
liable to take place. With all this liability of spoiling goods it becomes 











































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 13 


readily apparent that any device employed to regulate such an important 
feature as the tension of the rubber warps must be very sensitive and 
dependable. 

On looms making wide goods, and where space will allow, regulation is 
accomplished by a worm and gear movement as shown in Fig. 2. The 
iron rubber beam is threaded on to a square shaft A, at one end of which 
a gear wheel B is fastened. In this gear is meshed the worm C, which is 
operated by a heavy linen cord D passed twice around a pulley E. The 
cord derives its movement from a rocking shaft F, on which there is fas¬ 
tened a screw extension G, by which adjustment can be made so as to 
deliver very accurately any amount from the rubber beam. 

With this kind of movement, and in order to feed the thread uniformly 
into the web, it becomes necessary to use mechanically made warps where 
the same uniformity has been maintained in putting the warps on the beams. 
The warps so made must come from the thread manufacturer in individual 
warps, which are done up in chain form, each warp containing the requisite 
number of threads. 

Making Rubber Warps 

The machine used for making the warps, shown at Fig. 3, is mounted 
on an iron frame A, which carries the power driven warp beam B. Behind 
this is an open top expansion reed C, the dents of which are regulated to 
open, coarse or fine by an internal spring which is regulated by a hand 
wheel. This reed also has a screw sidewise adjustment for centering. 
Behind the reed C are fixed two pairs of nip rolls, D and E, and an open 
roller F, which is followed by a belt driven beater roll G, used to beat the 
threads out straight as they leave the chain. 

The rubber warp is first laid on a cloth on the floor, under the beater 
roll. The end is then passed over the beater roll G, over the open roll F, 
through the two pairs of nip rolls D and E, over the expansion reed C, and 
then looped to a leader on the rubber beam, Avhere the knot is put in a 
countersink on the beam barrel, so as not to interfere with the lay of the 
warp. The section of the warp between the two pairs of nip rolls is 
brought down in loop form, shown at II, and the nip rolls are then closed 
while the warp is in this position. The two sets of nip rolls are speeded 
alike and the rubber is always kept slack between the gripping points, so 
that all threads passing through the last set of nip rolls, D, are perfectly 
gauged in length and tension when passing through the reed C and on to 
the beam B. The threads of rubber are under considerable tension, inas¬ 
much as the beam B is driven faster than the nip rolls D and E. 

Friction Let-Off 

Where there is limited loom space, and where a small number of 
threads are employed, as in the narrower garter fabrics, it is not as prac¬ 
tical to have the warps made mechanically, and for this reason they are not 
likely to be put on the beams with as much uniformity of tension. In 
such cases it becomes necessary to have some automatic device that will 
correct any irregularities and maintain a uniform delivery throughout. 
The device for doing this is shown at Fig. 4. 

The warp carrier A is fastened to the back rail, which carries the 
warp, over which is passed the friction cloth G which is hung from a rod 
D. The friction cloth is fastened at the bottom to the graduated warp 
lever E, which is bolted to the bottom rail H, as shown. The rubber 
threads constituting the warp pass in a direct line to the harness C, and 
then to the breast beam B. The lever E, and the weights F, allow for 
proper adjustment of the friction cloth so as to keep the lever level as 
the warp beam empties. 

In making the rubber warps for narrow fabrics such as garters and 



14 


ELASTIC AND 


non-elastic narrow fabrics 


into the required sections or strips of the vanous . - 



warps. This splitting and warping process must be done in a long room 
where the warp can be stretched out to its full length, if possible, after 
it is unchained. These warps are usually about 60 yards long. The “head’ 





























































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


15 


of the sheet, or the part where the cutting knife has not gone through, is 
spread out flat on a series of hooks at the beaming machine and the tail 
end is fixed securely on a strong hook at the other end of the room. 

The requisite number of threads for the several warps which are to 
be beamed are counted off and each different section is fastened to a beam. 
The end knot is laid snugly in the counter-sink made in the beam barrel 
for this purpose. A wide reed is used, covering the number of beams 
operated in the machine, which is usually about four, and the threads are 
reeded over spaces opposite the different beams. This reed can be moved 
sidewise across the face of the beams and each warp properly centered so 
as to keep the warp level. The operator then starts the beaming machine, 
which may be operated either by hand or power, and the warps are wound 



up. At the same time a helper walks towards the beamer carrying the 
tail end of the warps and keeping the tension as nearly uniform as possible. 
When the warps are all wound on the several beams, a lease is taken in 
each of them in the ordinary manner, and each separate section is securely 
fastened. 

Should floor space be limited, a horizontal reel is used, which is about 
six feet long and about five feet in diameter. On this the sheet of rubber 
is wound after being split in proper sections at the head end and divided 
by a coarse reed, so as to be able to distribute the different sections all 
across the reel. Each section can then be taken off the reel as required 
for the beams. The tension of the threads is governed by a weighted leather 
strap passed over the face of the reel. 

































Chapter III. 


Head Motion Looms and Dobbies for Making Fancy Effects lying ip 
Harness—Construction of Loom Webs, Lisle Webs, French Web 
or Railroad Weave and Cable T Vebs—Making Good 
Selvages and Preventing Long-Sided Effect 

S O far we have mentioned only plain looms, or those limited to the 
capacity of eight or twelve pick cams. Before we consider any of the 
varied constructions relating to elastic webs it will be well to speak of 
fancy looms. There are different types, adapted to a wide range of fancy 
effects, but the fancy loom most generally used is what is known as the 
chain head, an example of which is shown at Fig. 1. Such looms are 
usually of 18 and 24 harness capacity, and are operated by a figure chain 
of the length required to produce the desired figure. Chains are made up 
of a series of bars, one bar operating with each pick of the loom and 
having on it space for a roller or sinker for each harness to be operated. 

Wherever a roller is placed on the bar, the corresponding harness will 
be raised, and wherever a sinker is used, the corresponding harness will be 
dropped. A series of rollers following each other will hold the harness up, 
and likewise a series of sinkers following each other will keep the harness 
down, thus maintaining at all times an open shed. 

The Shedding Operation 

The shedding operation is very simple. In the fancy head there are 
two cylinders, each of which has gear teeth running the entire length. 
These cylinders operate continuously in opposite directions. The teeth of 
the cylinders do not go around the entire circumference as will be noticed 
on the upper cylinder shown in Fig. 1, but there is a blank space provided 
so as to allow for the engaging of the gear wheels brought into position at 
the right time as the cylinders revolve. 

Between the two cylinders are vibrator gears, one for each harness, and 
to these gears are attached arms which are connected with the different 
harnesses. These vibrator gears can be thrown into position by the chain 
rollers or sinkers, so as to come in contact with the teeth of either the upper 
or lower cylinder, and are so timed that they take their position at the 
moment when the blank part of the cylinder presents itself. A vibrator 
gear engaging the upper cylinder is turned so as to lift the harness con¬ 
nected with it, while a vibrator gear engaging the lower cylinder drops that 
particular harness. The harnesses stay in their relative positions until the 
chain calls for another change. 

Both cylinders and engaging gears are made of hard chilled steel, so 
that wear and tear by hammering at the time of engagement are reduced to 
a minimum. To further soften the engagement, the speed of the cylinder 
is controlled by elliptical driving gears, which reduce the speed of travel 
just at the moment when the engagement takes place. 

The timing of the various movements of the head is so well controlled 
that there is little risk of any part failing to maintain proper relationship 
with the other parts. But in the event of any accident or breakage occurring 
which interferes with the free motion of the head, such strain is taken care 
of by a soft pointed set screw on the head driving shaft, which shears off 
and so prevents further serious damage. 

The capacity of the head is such that by careful arrangement of figures 
and repeats it is quite possible to make several simple designs to inn side 
by side in the same harnesses and this is often done. Of this we may 
write more later. 


16 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


17 



Fig. 1.—Fancy Loom for Weaving Narrow Fabrics 



Fig. 2.—Double Index Dobby 











18 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


The Overhead Dobby 

A popular machine for light fancy warp figures is the overhead dobby 
shown at Fig. 2, which may be used as auxiliary either to the plain cam 
loom or the fancy head loom. It is placed on a well braced, rigid frame and 
built as high as convenient so as to reduce the angle of the harness strings. 
It is driven directly from a two to one shaft, which may be either under¬ 
neath the loom or at the end, and is connected with a threaded adjustable 
rod, which is attached to a slotted lever and can be adjusted to govern the 
depth of the dobby shed. 

It is customary to put two of these dobby machines over each loom, but 
having only one main drive the two machines are coupled together and 
work in unison. Such an arrangement has the double advantage of a less 
acute angle at the harness tie-up, and also affords facilities for a distinctly 
different pattern on either half of the loom. It minimizes the risk of the 
harness threads cutting into the compart boards, and prolongs relatively the 
life of the dobby harness. Furthermore it allows for a straight tie-up on 
either machine so that there is no limitation to the length or character of 
the design, as is often the case where two patterns are run together on the 
same machine, or where point tie-ups are used, as would very likely be 
necessary if only one machine was installed to cover different designs on 
both halves of the loom. As we have previously stated it is not advisable 
to limit capacity for the saving of a few dollars in the initial cost. 

Overshot Dobby 

Another type of loom employed in the making of fancy goods is what 
is known as the overshot loom. It is used for the introduction of a silk 
weft figure effect, and is probably the most pronounced form of elaboration 
introduced. It differs from the old rise and fall method in the economy of 
operation. The overshot continues to weave the body of the goods right 
along while the auxiliary shuttle is putting the silk figure in at the same 
time. Not only is it economical in the respect of greater yardage, but the 
method employed in binding the figure limits the use of silk to the actual 
figure displayed, and does not carry the silk, which is the most expensive 
material in the fabric, to the extreme selvage at every pick, as is the case 
where the rise and fall method is employed. 

In the overshot system a specially designed dobby, shown at Fig. 3, is 
used for operating the lightly weighted threads of the binder warps. Two 
pairs of knives are employed, one of each pair operating far enough to 
raise the threads used in the binder warp to the level of the top main shed, 
while the other one of each pair carries the threads which are used for 
figure purposes to a higher level, so that the overshot shuttle may pass 
under them. This occurs every alternate pick of the loom, the body shuttle 
making two picks while the upper or overshot shuttle makes only one. 

In levelling the harness, setting or timing of the loom, and making the 
shed for overshot work, the plans followed are identically the same as in 
ordinary single shuttle work, as the upper shuttle and upper shed are 
distinctly auxiliary and subordinate to the main shed. The binder warp, 
being necessarily but lightly weighted in its relationship to the upper and 
lower cloths it is binding together, allows for the figure threads to be 
strained out of their normal position, so that the upper shuttle may pass 
under them. In order to conform to this strained position of the binder 
figure threads, the upper shuttle must be acutely pitched downward at the 
nose so as to get a good clearance, and thus avoid any binding in its 
passages through the shed. This peculiar downward pitch of the shuttle 
is very important and cannot be over emphasized. It is shown in Fig. 4. 





ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


19 


The overshot (lobby is so constructed that a different set of draw 
knives operate on each alternate pick of the loom, one on the binder lift 
and the other on the rubber lift. This not only allows for a silk figure 



made with the shuttle but affords facilities for the introduction of a warp 
figure also, a combination whieh can often be made very effective, as shown 
in Fig. 5. 

Importance of Dobby Harness 

Too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby 
. harness. A 30/9 ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about 16 to the 
pound. After deciding on the character of the tie-up required, and when 
the harness has been threaded in the compart boards, the lingoes should be 
looped on the strings, and then left to stand and settle for a couple of days 
before leveling. It is better still to run the dobby machine for a few hours, 
lifting all the harness and then dropping them, so as to settle the strings 
and take out any kinks or loose places which are bound to exist in a highly 
cabled linen cord of this character. 

The labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness 
suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be used, 
so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving changes in 
the tie-up. In order to prolong the life of the harness, in the adjustment 
of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent, it is advisable to 
apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil, which should be thoroughly worked 
into the strings by running the harness for several hours, using one and 
one change cards. This should be followed by a dusting of talc or soap¬ 
stone, which will add much to the smoothness of the finish. 

To reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several out¬ 
side compart boards, where the strain and wear are particularly acute, and 
also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves, it is 
good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different rows of 
strings, just above the compart boards. These strips of glass may be 
threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame. 

Construction of Simple Webs 

Before enlarging further on details of fancy looms, it will be well to 
retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler 
forms of web, such as are made on what we have described as plain looms. 
The webs best known, perhaps, are those such as are used for men’s 
ordinary garter wear, and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry goods 











ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


20 




Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 

and notions trade. They vary from one-quarter to 2 inches in width. There 
are several distinct classes of these goods, the best known of which are the 
loom webs, the lisles and the cables, all of which are of single cloth con¬ 
struction, in which the filling is the main feature. There are generally two 
cotton warps used in such goods, one of which is commonly called the binder 
and weaves two up and two down, while the other is called the gut or filler, 
and works with the rubber warp, one up and one down. The selvages of 
these webs are made with the filling, which passes around a wire at each 
pick, the wire remaining stationary while the web is taken away from it in 
the process of weaving. An illustration of a loom web of this character is 
shown at Fig. 6. The draft and cam arrangement are shown at Fig. 6A. 

It is customary in some factories to use only one harness to carry both 
rubber and gut, inasmuch as the weaving of the two are the same and they 
both go in the same cavity or pocket of the web. Where such a method is 
employed there is always a tendency for the gut threads to get out of their 
proper places, and to fall together in pairs at irregular points, which will 

































Fiji. 6A.—Harness Draft and Heave for Three-Quarter Inch Doom Web 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


21 



Fig. 9A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch Cable Web 






















































































































































































































































































22 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


produce an objectionable “rowey” appearance in the goods. This will be 
noticed more particularly in white and light colored webs. 

In the harness draft shown, it will be seen that one harness is employed 
for the rubber and one for the gut. It is thus possible to shed the gut 
harness so as to open more than the rubber, having it travel both higher and 
lower than the rubber harness at each alternate pick of the loom. By this 
movement the gut threads will be kept in the desired position, and at the 
same relative side of the rubber threads in each of the several pockets de¬ 
signed to carry them both. If, from any unusual cause, any of the gut 
threads get away from their proper places it is easy by this arrangement 
of separation to lift the gut harness at any time, insert a thread of cotton 
between the gut and rubber threads, and put them in their proper places 
when commencing to weave again. 

The weave employed in the making of webs of this kind, although of a 
very simple character, involves a condition which does not favor a straight 
well woven fabric unless great care is taken to offset troublesome tendencies. 
The nature of the weave is such that at one pick the binder harness changes, 
while on the next pick it remains open and does not change, the rubber and 
gut harness changing only. The result of this movement is such that one 
shed clears for the reception of the filling much better than the other, so 
that at one side of the web the filling will hug the edge wire, shown at 
W in Fig. 6A, while at the other side of the web the failure to get a good 
clearance prevents the filling getting so snugly around the wire. Therefore, 
as the web draws away from the edge wire in the process of weaving, the 
tendency is for one selvage rubber cavity to be small, while the other is 
large, which means that at the open side there is a freedom for contraction 
of the edge rubber which is not present at the other side, and a long sided 
uneven Aveb is the result. 


Making a Good Selvage 

To counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to 
get a good clearance of the shed. The shed should be timed as early as 
possible, so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance to 
separate and clear itself. When space permits, the front reed should be 
set slightly over on one side of the reed space, so as to create a little 
longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the open side, 
and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the other side. 
The warp stock used, however, may be of such a character that the loose 
fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether to counteract 
the trouble, and it may then become advisable to put in a fine edge wire on 
the open side of the web to offset the creeping tendency of the selvage 
rubber thread when contraction takes place after the web comes through 
the press rolls. 

The feature which is aimed at, and which is most desirable in the 
appearance of such goods, is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber line, 
and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web generally. 
The prominence of the rib varies, of course, according to the size of the 
rubber thread used, and the binder warp employed in dividing the same, 
but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper care is not 
taken to get all the prominence of rib possible. Use as fine a binder warp 
as is practicable, compensating for any loss of weight or excess of con¬ 
traction by using a heavier gut, which again of itself helps to fill in the 
rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to the rib. All the 
weight possible should be carried on the binder warp up to a point of safety, 
and care should be taken to get a very easy, uniform delivery of the warp 
from the beam so as to avoid any erratic jerky movement of the warp lever. 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


23 


The warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should 
be well balanced and true to center, and the flanges free from any 
irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform 
operation of the warp lever. 

The gut, which weaves in with the rubber thread, is used for the two¬ 
fold purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a 
measure the length of stretch in the goods. The more gut there is used, 
the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp, and the 
shorter the stretch produced. 

Aside from the fineness and body of the goods, the element of stretch 
largely governs the market value of the fabric, so that good judgment and 
great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of yarns 
used. Weft, binder and gut all play their part in the governing of the 
stretch, as also does the number of picks put in the goods. Any excess of 
weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch. In fact, 
any one of these features, wrongly adjusted, may result, in the difference 
between the profit and loss. 

In making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used, around 
which the filling passes at each pick. This wire, shown at W in Fig. 6A, is 
highly tempered piano wire, of the very best quality obtainable. Sharpened 
to a needle point at one end, with a loop turned at the other end, it is 
fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an adjustable slip 
knot, so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate the length of wire 
running in the web. It is then passed through a harness lieddle eye on the 
rubber or gut shaft, and through a reed space next outside the selvage 
rubber thread. The constant wear of this wire on the reed dent makes it 
necessary to have this dent of hardened steel so as to withstand the constant 
wear of the wire, which is always being crowded against the dent by the 
nipping action of the filling as it draws against the Avire in the process 
of weaving, and the repeated beat at the same place in the dent at the 
Aveaving line. In any event, after a short time the dents in the reed will 
be cut so that it becomes necessary to frequently replace them with neAv 
ones, and for this reason it should be so arranged that they can be easily 
and quickly removed from and replaced in the reeds. 

The Lisle Web 

The lisle web, being perfectly plain, is similar in general character to 
the loom web, except that it is made Avith high grade combed and gassed 
yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom Avebs, and 
is woven Avith four threads for the binder warp betAveen each strand of 
rubber, instead of tAvo as in the loom web. The harness draft of the one- 
half inch lisle web shown at Fig. 7, together with the AveaA r e, is shown at 
Fig. 7A. The construction is as folloAvs: Binder, 36 ends 80/2; gut, 8 ends 
40/2; rubber, 10 ends 32s; reed, 21 dent; picks, 78 per inch; stretch, 
75 per cent. 

It will be seen that all the binder threads operate tAvo up and two 
doAvn, but change at each pick in rotation, making the repeat every four 
picks of the loom. In a weave of this character the changes of the harness 
are distributed uniformly at each pick, thus making it much easier to get 
uniform conditions on each selvage. It differs from the loom web in this 
respect, where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended with. 

Like the loom webs, prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is 
the main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics, and 
therefore everything possible should be done which Avill emphasize this. The 
binder warp must be of fine yarns, and the warp must be Aveighted so as 
to cut the Avarp line doAvn sharp and clear up to a point of safety, being 




24 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow in the goods 
or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp. The yarn most generally used 
for filling is 26-2 comber and gassed high grade stock, of about 15 turns per 
inch. It should be a Avell rounded lofty yarn so as to obtain all the 
covering property possible. It should be spun with the utmost uniformity, 
as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be noticeable in the goods. 

The dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the 
greatest importance. It is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise 
perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling 
yarn which has not been properly processed. This faulty condition of the 
yarn may be caused in a variety of ways; such as an irregular boil, poor 
circulation of liquor in the kier, irregular drying, etc. Even when the 
color appears to be perfect, poor pi'ocessing will often prevent the smooth 
running of the yarn from the shuttle, causing it to drag and thus create 
irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated breaking of the 
selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods. 

The many difficulties of this character which were encountered when 
skein yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and 
almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes, inasmuch as the 
method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly so 
variable. Furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by 
quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn. 
Knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the 
goods. 

Chafed and broken edge rubber threads, however, are not always the 
result of the conditions named, by any means, but may be caused by a 
variety of other things. Not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too 
long in the web so as not to draw out freely. Sometimes it may be a bent 
wire that causes the trouble, or it may be the rubber rolling around the 
wire. Many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into 
the dent, so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in 
weaving. All these things require looking into, and when trouble comes 
the cause should be found and not guessed at. 

French Web or Railroad Weave 

Another plain web which has attained considerable popularity, and 
which is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle, 
is what is known as the French web or railroad weave, shown at Fig. 8. In 
almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as already 
described, and it differs only in the draft, which is shown at Fig. 8A. It 
allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally employed in 
the loom web, and the draft changes at every two cords, which gives it a 
peculiar “rowey” appearance from which it derives the name of railroad 
weave. 

There is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it 
might be well to speak of. The high tension at which it is necessary to 
work the rubber warp, together with the light weight required on the cotton 
warp and the crowding together of the picking, creates a tendency for the 
goods to rebound at the front reed, accompanied by a backward and for¬ 
ward sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam. This 
movement is liable to polish the goods, which is an objectionable feature. 
To counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over a small, felt- 
covered wood tube, which revolves and responds to the movement of the 
bounding web. In this Avay there is no friction to glaze or polish the web 
and interfere with the bloom of the yarn. The same polish will occur as 
the goods pass through the press rolls, unless they are felt covered. 




ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


25 


Cable Web 

The most popular web now made up into men’s garters is what is 
known as the cable web, shown at Fig. 9. With the pronounced prominence 
of the two-dent rib, which gives it a character peculiarly different from the 
plain web, it is well adapted to tins class of goods. Simple in appearance, 
it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture, particularly when we 
remember that it is not unusual to be required to make a finished stretch 
of not less than 100 per cent. The harness draft and weave are shown at 
Fig. 9A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 34 ends 80/2; Gut, 24 
ends 20/2; Rubber, 18 ends 28s; Reed, 20 dent; Picks, 80 per inch; 
Stretch, 100 per cent. 

The filling, floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber 
threads in pairs, is very easily thrown out of place, the result of which 
may be an unsightly seersucker appearance, as shown in Fig. 10, which the 
process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects. 

Trouble may manifest itself by the filling over the ribs opening up and 
allowing the gut threads to prick through. To prevent this objectionable 
feature it is necessary to use a good quality of moderately soft yarn for 
the gut, not necessarily of high grade stock, but a yarn which is uniformly 
spun and not at all hard or wiry. As these goods are being woven and 
on full stretch, the gut threads, of course, are perfectly straight and 
accurate in line, but when contraction takes place, to probably one-half the 
former length, these heavy threads, which form probably about 25 per 
cent, of the weight of the entire web, should bend or fold uniformly and 
dispose of themselves in such a manner as not to appear in any way on 
the face of the web, snugly housed away in the several pockets or cavities. 
If the yarn composing these gut threads is spotty or irregularly spun, this 
uniformity of fold inside the pockets will be broken up and the appearance 
of the face of the goods is likely to be marred by unsightly specks of 
cotton pricking through, which can be both seen and felt. 



Chapter IV. 


Elaboration of Honeycomb Effects by Parti-Dyed and Printed Fillings — 
Bandage and Surgical Webs Made with Plain and Covered Rubber 
—Frill Web Woven on Cam Looms—Double Cloths — 
Importance of Securing Balance Between Back 
and Face of Goods 

A MONG the group of single cloth webs confined to the capacity of 
plain looms, is what is commonly known as the honeycomb, shown 
at Fig-. 1 and Fig. 1A. This is generally made with silk, wood silk, 
or schappe filling. The smooth filling floating over two cords gives the 
web a smooth feel, there being no rib effect noticeable whatever, making it 
well adapted for a fine trade. The warp lines are almost entirely hidden 
by the filling, so that it is not practicable to introduce any sharp stripe 
fancy effects, which can lie done both in the plain web and the cable. The 
honeycomb is thus confined to plain solid colors or such elaboration as can 
be obtained from the filling. 

Fancy effects are often secured by dyeing skein yarn in two or more 
colors. Such yarns when woven in the goods produce alternating effects at 
regular distances in different colors, such distances being governed by the 
length of the dips and the width of the goods. The effects which can be 
produced are quite varied. The simplest way of accomplishing this is to 
use the regular 54-inch skein, having white or some light shade as a base, 
and then dyeing a given portion of the skein another color. This process 
is carried out by hanging the skeins on sticks placed in a rack at the 
required distance above the color liquor, and then lowering them into the 
vat and dyeing the immersed part in the usual manner. 

Where cotton is used for the filling and more elaborate effects are 
desired, long reeled skeins are used, sometimes 108 or 210 inches, which 
have been reeled on specially designed collapsible reels. Such skeins are 
not practicable to handle in the dye house in the manner already described. 
Sections of such skeins are wrapped in heavy waterproof paper and tied 
tightly, so that the dye liquor cannot penetrate that portion, and then the 
whole is put in the liquor, when the exposed part only will be dyed. 

Then again sometimes wood clamps are used, like that shown at Fig. 2, 
having a recess into which part of the skein is laid after being carefully 
folded. The two halves are clamped together tightly in such a manner 
that the dye cannot penetrate the clamped part of the skein while the part 
left outside the clamp is dyed when the whole is immersed in the dye 
liquor. 

Printed Filling 

Another form of elaboration used in such goods is printing the skein 
yarn used for the filling. This is done by using a machine having a pair 
of fluted brass printing rolls, one of which is made to open on a hinge 
like a gate so that a skein of yarn can be put around it. This roller is 
then closed to its original position, so that with the two rollers parallel 
and close together, and the skein of yarn hugged tightly between them, the 
turning of the rollers imprints color on the skein. The skein is then taken 
out and drved before spooling. Different sets of rolls are used so as to 
get fine and coarse effects and various colors are used in printing. 

Where plaid or printed fillings are used for the elaboration of webs 
of the honeycomb type, it is not unusual to introduce a couple of plain 
cords in the center of the web, or possibly on either side, so as to break up 
the flatness of the weave, this opens up the opportunity of using lines 
of a different color in the warp which properly arranged will produce a 
plaid-like effect. 


26 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


27 






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Fig:. 1.4.—Harness Draft anti Weave for Honeycomb. 



OF SKF/N AtOT -TO RE DY£0 

Fig. 2.—Clamp Used for Dying Parti-Colored Skeins 
























































































28 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Bandage Webs 

There is quite a large demand for surgical and bandage webs, Fig. 3, 
in widths ranging from 2 to 4 inches. These webs are used for binding the 
limbs and other purposes and are in the pure white or natural yarns. They 
require to be made with a long soft easy stretch. An open reed of about 12 
dents per inch is employed. Four threads are generally used for the binder, 
weaving tAvo up and tA\ T o doAvn. The goods are similar in construction to 
a regular lisle Aveb, except that the gut is omitted in order to get the easiest 
possible movement. 



Fig. 3.—Bandage AVebs; Fabric at Left Made With Plain Rubber; AVeb at Right Made 

AA’ith Covered Rubber 

The yarn is generally the same quality and size for both Avarp and 
filling, and is usually a soft spun 2-20s. The side of rubber is generally 
about 38 or 40, with 40 picks per inch and a finished stretch of 100 per cent. 
The use such Avebs are put to, necessitating as Ave have already said a soft 
and sluggish stretch, prevents the use of a heavy rubber thread, the result 
being that Avhen the bandage is kept in close contact with the Avarm body, 
the life of the fine rubber is of short duration. 

This condition, and the open Aveave necessary to get the easy stretch, 
have made it expedient to use in many of these goods strands of rubber 
Avhich haA T e been covered with cotton threads before weaving. This process 
not only prolongs the life of the Aveb, but alloAvs for even more open Aveav- 
ing, the use of different AA r eaves than Avould be possible Avhere the uncovered 
rubber thread is used, and the production of a fabric more suitable for 
the purpose. 

In order to get the soft easy stretch which is the most desirable 
characteristic of a bandage web, and yet have the necessary Avidth, it is not 
unusual to introduce a seersucker effect, as shown in Fig.*4, in sections of 
the web so as to reduce the strong elasticity of the Avhole. In an ordinary 
cotton cloth the seersucker or crinkle effect is usually produced by the use 
of a separate Avarp of heavier yarn than the rest of the fabi'ie, Avhich warp 
must be Aveighted differently and often a different weave is employed to 
emphasize the contrast in the puckered seersucker effect. 

In the elastic web all this special preparation is unnecessary. Wherever 
the seersucker stripe is desired, strands of rubber are left out Avhich of 
course takes aAvay from these portions that element Avhich contracts the other 
part of the Aveb, and a seersucker effect is the result. Such stripes are 
often used for the ornamentation of some Avebs by having narrow sections 
introduced for border effects, or running doAvn the center, and in fact thev 
may be employed in a variety of ways, inasmuch as they lend themselves 
effectively to different forms of coloring, in relief to the main fabric. 









ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


29 




Fig. 5.—Frill Web Made on Cam Loom 




-Harness Draft and Weave for Fig:. (>, Simplest Form of Double Cloth 






































































































































30 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


In passing it might be well to note that where it is necessary to use 
covered rubber threads special arrangements are required for making the 
warps, as the covered thread cannot be handled like the ordinary thread. 
The spools are placed in a rack which is required for each warp. Arrange¬ 
ments have been made so that to each spool is attached a special head, 
which can he weighted either by a lever brake or weight attached to a cord 
running in a groove on the auxiliary head. By this arrangement uniform 
delivery of the threads can be made to the warp beam so as to avoid any 
puckering caused by irregular warping. 

Frill Web on Cam Loom 

In single cloth webs as already stated, the scope for ornamental effects 
is necessarily limited. The hulk of such webs, particularly those made with 
a wire edge, are for the most part plain. There is a type of garter web, 
however, characterized as “frill” and shown at Fig. 5, which may be made 
within the narrow limitation of cam looms, although the frill feature is more 
generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy effects. 

The frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired 
width woven on to a section of elastic, which likewise may be of variable 
width. The strands of rubber used in the central section, being woven under 
tension, contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the press rolls. 
The side sections having no rubber in them do not contract, but frill up 
uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds. No wire is 
required for the selvage when a frill is made, and the tension of the filling 
is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill warp and make a 
neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of the reed space 
occupied by the warp. 

The frill part must be on a separate warp, apart from the binder 
threads which are used in the central section. The elastic section is made 
in the regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity. 
The frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses, but the draft is 
so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for 
the other. This arrangement is made in order that the filling may only be 
hound in alternating picks on the frill part, whereas in the body it is bound 
at every pick. This method makes the frill soft and pliable, so that it 
readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body part, 
and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds. 

Should an exceptionally fine frill be desired, the same two harnesses are 
used for the frill at either side, and the filling is bound or woven in at 
each passage of the shuttle. Wherever this method is employed, however, 
it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill warp, or a 
fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the frill. If such 
precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and stiff and will not fold 
u'niformily as the center contracts. It may even retard the desired con¬ 
traction of the body. 

It is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed 
having the same spacing of dents all across. There is a liability of getting 
a coarse looking frill, showing up the marks of the reed dents. The plan 
more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the frill part 
of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the body, generally 
in the ratio of two to one, so that the frill threads may be evenly distributed 
in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse lines of the dents. 

Occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only. 
In this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having 
no frill, and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods to produce 
the proper balance. A soft frill is required and a limited contraction of 
the body part. 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


31 


Double Cloth Webs 

Our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs 
of a simple character, where, apart from the rubber and gut there is only 
one warp used, and where both back and face of the web are alike. We 
will now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs, where 
two distinct cloths are woven, one for the face and one for the back, each 
working independently of the other, but tied together by another warp 
known as the binder, or else the two cloths interlock each other in such a 
manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp. 

By this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be 
produced with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the 
single cloth method. The weaves and materials employed in the face and 
back of the goods may be identical, or weaves of a different character and 
stock of different opialities, sizes and colors may be used. Fancy effects may 
be used to embellish the face, while the back may lie perfectly plain and 
free from any coloring whatever. 

There are certain features associated with the construction of double 
cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with. The different 
weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the warps 
into sections to accommodate such conditions. A separate warp is required 
for both back and face and also one for the binder, which delivers a much 
greater length of warp than either, necessitated by the character of the 
weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths together. A separate 
warp is also required for the gut, which goes in the web perfectly straight 
and is shorter in length than any of the other sections. Such goods also 
require a special warp for the selvage, so that in the simplest form of such 
Avebs a bank of five Avarps is necessary. On fancy goods the introduction 
of fancy Avarps may add to this number. 

Balance Between Back and Face 

The element of a right balance betAveen the back and face has to be 
considered, and if care be not taken in the proper adjustment of the stock 
the result may be that one side of the goods Avill assert control over the 
other in such a manner as to prevent it lying flat and e\ r en. When such a 
web is cut it Avill curl up so as to be almost uncontrollable. Such a condition 
may arise from a variety of causes. If the weaves of the face and back 
cloths are identical then it Avill be necessary to have the face and back 
Avarps of the same size yarn or its equivalent. For instance, should the 
face be a four thread plain and 40/2 is used, and the back only Iavo threads, 
then the yarn used for the back Avarp must be 20/2 so as to equal the 
four threads of 40/2 in the face. Should, however, the face be a more 
open Aveave than the back, then an equal Aveight of yarn in both cloths 
Avill not be right, and it will be necessary to use yarn of a heavier Aveight 
for the face to compensate for the freedom of the more open Aveave and 
effect a proper balance Avith the more tightly Avoven back. There can be 
no fixed rule to apply to this, and only experience Avill indicate the proper 
relationship betAveen the tAvo. In Figs. 6 and 6A are shoAvn the simplest 
form of double cloth, known as a plain web. 

By carefully following the Aveave it Avill be seen that while the face 
Aveaves 3 up and 1 down, and the back 1 up and 3 down, the filling will 
appear both on the face and back of the .goods as 1 up and 1 doAvn. If 
the binder Avas not there it Avould be a tubular Aveb, having the same appear¬ 
ance all around. The binder, hoAvever, intersects the upper and loAver cloths 
at each pick and binds the tAvo together in one complete Avhole, Avhile the 
rubber lies between the tAvo, each strand being separated by the interlocking- 
binder threads. 



32 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


It becomes necessary in order properly to connect the upper and 
lower cloths at their extreme edges to use a selvage warp, which as will he 
seen in Fig. 6A is drawn in on all four face and hack harnesses, and the 
threads of which are arranged so as to complete the weave all around. To 
do this it will be seen that there is an odd thread at one side, otherwise 
the weave at this point would show two threads operating together next 
to each othex*, and would break up the continuity of the .weave. 



Fig. 7.—Method of Banking a Set of Warps for Double Cloth Webs 


The selvage plays an important part in the structure and weaving of 
the web. It foi’ms the pocket for covering in which lies the outside rubber 
threads, and it must be so arranged that these threads can function propei’ly 
so as to make a piece of goods that will lie flat. In the first place the 
yai’n must be of such a size that with the proper number of threads em¬ 
ployed the selvage will contx-act uniformly with the body of the goods, so 
that the web will not ‘‘frill” on account of a too heavy selvage, or “belly” 
because it is too light. 

Care for Selvage 

The threads must be properly divided in the front reed so as to make 
a good clearance for the filling, which otherwise would “nib” up and make 
an unsightly selvage. Then again, a careful adjustment of the weight 
carried on the selvage warp must be made so as to accommodate it to the 
requisite tension of the filling as it is delivered from the shuttle, otherwise 
the edge rubber threads will be liable to chafe and cut off when strained 
out of proper alignment with the front reed. It will be observed in the 
draft that two rubber threads are used in each selvage, which is necessarv 
in order to control the additional yarn used in the construction of the 
selvage. 




























Chapter V. 


Ihree Leaf Twill or Satin Face Woven in Conjunction with Plain Back — 
Position of Back Bolls in Relation to Harness Shed—Use of Four 
Leaf Twill—Filling Fancy Effects and Stitch Figures — 
Interchanging Figure and Face 

T l RNING our attention from plain webs to combination weaves, we 
will take up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill, or satin 
face, woven in conjunction with a plain back. This is a type of web 
not only used for suspenders, but employed extensively for corset 
garter attachments also. A web of this character when properly constructed 
has a smooth velvet-like face. The threads are uniformly distributed aci'oss 
the width without showing any of the “rowy” effect from the binder warps, 
which are completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of 
the face threads. When the contraction of the web takes place, these 
floating face threads mass together in a velvet-like pile, not only producing 
a smooth handling web but materially increasing the thickness. Such webs 
are generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back, 
and have what is termed a round edge, similar to the selvage used on a 
plain web. This arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and 
gives the fabric a much finer appearance. 

Harness and Chain Draft 

Fig. 1 shows the harness and chain draft of such a web, together with 
the construction of a properly balanced web for standard goods of D/g 
inches wide. It will be noticed that the face, consisting of 150 threads, 
is split up into two warps of 75 threads each. This arrangement is 
necessary in order properly to weigh them so as to get a good clearance in 
the shed. The warp has to be divided likewise in the harnesses and put 
on six harness frames, although the weave could be produced on three. It 
would not be practicable to crowd 50 threads on one harness frame in the 
narrow space available, as the harness eyes would shoulder and crowd too 
much when changing. 

In drawing-in this web, one face warp should be arranged so that the 
threads are drawn on the first, third and fifth harnesses, and the other 
face warp should be on the second, fourth and sixth. Such an arrangement 
in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism, 
and minimizes the risk of breakages. It is also important to make proper 
divisions of the warps at the back rolls, inasmuch as some of the warps 
have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted, and also 
on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves. 

The back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent 
undue friction of one warp against another. The binder warp should be 
worked under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this 
must carry. Fig. 2 shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation 
to the harness shed. 

In a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded 
in the front reed, there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent 
a perfect clearance in the shed, with a liability of producing occasional 
floats through the shuttle skipping these threads. Such floats will pearl up 
when the web contracts and make an imperfect face. This trouble may be 
prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast beam rod, 
so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly tighter than 
that which is in the upper harness. 


33 


34 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


The chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to 
produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed, and 
thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible. The filling yarn 
should be soft, of about 15 turns per inch, and of good uniform quality, in 
order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the rubber. The reed dent inside 
the selvage rubber should be carefully twisted at an angle to conform to the 
nipped in position to the rubber thread, so that the outside edge of the 
dent will not cut the rubber when the reed beats against the goods at the 
weaving line. 



Fig. 1.—Three Leaf Twill, or Satin Face. Woven in Conjunction With a Plain Back 



Use of Coarser Yarn 

A fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face 
yarn by using a five threaded face over a six thread repeat. This is shown 
in the harness draft at Fig. 3. 

In non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin 
weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces, but this is not so in 
elastic webs, as the contraction of the goods after weaving would produce a 
ragged, spongy surface. A float of three picks on the face is about the 
limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web, with few exceptions, and 
even this only in connection with fine picking. 


























































































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


35 


Use of Four Leaf Twill 

A four leaf twill, however, can be used to great advantage when a 
heavy body is desired, as for example what is known as “farmer’s web.” 
These are usually made about two inches wide, and to further add to their 
weight they have what is termed a cushion back, the weave of which is 7 

down and 1 up. The use of these soft weaves on both face and back, 

while giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile 
produced, deprives it of much of its firmness. This condition is met by 
the introduction of an auxiliary back warp, underneath the main back 

warp, weaving 3 down and 1 up, which knits the upper and lower cloth 

more firmly together, thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods. 

























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Figr. 3.—Five Thread Face Over 6 Dent Repeat 


Another web among the plain loom products calling for passing men¬ 
tion is that specially made for the police and fireman’s brace. While this 
has a 7 down and 1 up cushion back similar to the farmer’s web, it differs 
in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill. This arrangement of 
combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of the 
sizes of yarn used for the various wraps so as to maintain a proper balance 
of the different weaves.employed in the face and back. Otherwise the goods 
would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for manufac¬ 
ture. Consideration must also be given to the effect of padding the size 
upon such goods in the finishing process, of which we will say more later. 

Filling Fancy Effects 

All the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on 
cam looms of various capacities. We will now turn our attention to what 
are generally understood as fancy effects. It might be well to treat these 
under two distinct headings. Those made with the shuttle, or what are 
called filling patterns, and those made from the warp, or what are called 
stitch patterns. 

The figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over sections 
of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in contrast to the 
warp. They are confined to no particular character of design, and may 
range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy harness loom or 
dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design. The ground or body may be 
either plain or twill, or any other acceptable weave suitable as a base for 
figuring, while the filling may be of a contrasting color, either of silk or 
cotton as desired. The figure or design may be made from the same shuttle 
used for the ground or it may be made by an auxiliary shuttle, either used 
as an overshot or rise and fall, according to the character of web desired. 

Where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as a 
sunken effect. It is made by burying sections of the face warp at intervals 
so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these points. No 
additional figure warps are required for this class of goods, and elaborate 
designs are obtainable, although there is not the scope for cross coloring that 
there is in the warp figure method. 











































































































36 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Stitch Fancy Patterns 

When the design is made from the warp, the figure- threads are made 
to float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after 
weaving, these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face, 
and make what is termed a stitch figure. 

It is not our purpose here to particularize in design, which is practi¬ 
cally unlimited, but only to refer to those features which govern the con¬ 
struction and illustrate as necessary. In order to maintain a proper 







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balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves, it is necessary 
to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and back of the 
goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two. In the double 
cloth webs the figure warp, when not appearing on the face of the goods, 
is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths, going in 
the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads, and it works at these times 
as a gut. This, of course, in a measure interferes with the contraction 


Fig:. 4A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 






















































































































































































































































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


37 




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4 


Fi>t. 5.4.— Harness and Chain Draft for F'ik. 












































































































































































































































38 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the construction. 
Here again we must note the effect of the contraction, in piling up the 
floating-figure threads, and the necessity of limiting the floats in making the 
design so as to avoid any ragged appearance. 

Fig. 4 shows a design of this character, with the harness and chain 
draft at Fig. 4A. In this particular web there are six harnesses used for 
the main body and ten for the figure, which is a point draw. While the 
figure is evenly distributed on the web, wherever it is not seen it is running 
between the upper and lower cloths, as already described, and acting as 
a gut. 

In order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put 
gut threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears, which must 
be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the 21 center 
cords. If this is not done the web will contract unduly at the edges and 
make it “belly.” The method here used of burying the figure between the 
upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the design, affords 
opportunity for introducing additional warp threads of different colors, so 
as to be able to bring up either one color or another as desired in a design. 

As most of the fancy head looms have not more than 18 harnesses, it 
will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat 
limited, therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs from 
such limited capacity. But careful study opens up a variety of methods 
by which a big range of designs is possible. 

Interchanging Figure and Face 

Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging” 
fancy in which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it 
does in the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The 
harness and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design 
a given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure 
threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure 
threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to each 
other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the interchanging 
face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves only three picks 
up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on the face cloth, and 
this produces a perfectly flat web. 

Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the 
“pieot” edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is 
Avoven in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to 
float outside, so that upon the contraction of the Aveb it will pearl out in 
small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web. 



Chapter VI. 


Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head 
Motion and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One 
Bank of Shuttles—The Overshot Method—XJse of Different 
Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long Floats 

A VERY effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1. 
The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and I down weave, 
but the yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next 
to the plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other. 
It will be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords 
with the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up 
the contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled 
cord, the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they 
pearl up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other 
turns to the left, making an effective border. 

Sunken Effects 

An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3. 

Both of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both 

cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most 
effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may be 
worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy head 
loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on either 

side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the plaid effect 

aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face warp is striped in 
color. The character of the figure is such that the major part of the face 
warp is operated in one solid block, making it practicable to produce this 
on harnesses worked on a chain loom. 

In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design 
independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom. 
But inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to 
the face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads 
from the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the 
cams or fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that 
a truer and clearer shed can be obtained. 

Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated, 
from two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so 
as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed. 
A 208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these 
goods, allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the require¬ 
ments of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord. 
Such arrangements will allow for six books for the face, one for the 
binder and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to 
use different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the 
design in relief effects to the main figure as required. 

Calculation for Figure Distribution 

In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the 
figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web. As 
already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at these 
points' is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is acting as 
filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should heavy blocks 
be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly manner. The 

39 


40 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it will mass well 
together and in a great measure prevent the buried, face stock from 
pricking through. 

In designing webs of this character, calculations have to be made from 
the web after it is woven and finished, otherwise the design may be out of 
the desired proportion. A web may have 60 picks per inch on the breast 
plate while weaving, but when contraction has taken place after going 
through the press, it may have shrunk as much as 50 per cent. The 
steaming and finishing process may further contract it another 10 per 
cent, which might make the picks about 100 per inch. Of these only one- 
half appear on the face and the other half on the back. Therefore 50 
picks per inch will be the proportion in which the design should be made, 
and paper scaled according must be used. 

Cross Shot Weaving 

We have so far confined our remarks to webs made on single shuttle 
looms. Turning our attention to the use of more than one bank of 
shuttles we would first make note of what is known as the cross shot. This 
is a form of weaving which largely increases the output and has in it the 
further element of economy, inasmuch as by this method the rubber warp 
can be worked at a much higher tension than by the single shuttle method. 

In the construction of single shuttle webs, the rubber harness rises and 
falls at each passage of the shuttle across the shed. This movement 
creates a friction on the rubber thread at ihe harness eye and an added 
friction at the front reed by its passing up and down in the dent. Friction 
is still further increased by the backward and forward movement of the 
lay, which makes two such passages to one made by the cross shot. 

In the cross shot method, the rubber remains stationary, with no 
upward and downward motion, which enables the rubber thread to be 
stretched out to its extreme limit while weaving, with little danger of 
chafing or breaking. Over and under this stationary rubber are two distinct 
sheds, one making the upper and the other the lower cloth. These two fabrics 
are stitched together by the binder warp, which travels up and down through 
both of these sheds. 

In order to keep all the warp threads uniformly tight while shedding, 
it is necessary to run these under separate back rolls, fixed at different 
heights, properly centering the upper and lower sheds with the harness 
and breast beams. 

Position op Rolls 

Fig. 4 will explain the position of the various rolls in relation to the 
breast beam. It will also show the peculiar formation of the shuttles used 
for this type of weaving, both pointing to one common cen f er, made 
necessary by the character of the two sheds. The bow of the upper shuttle 
must be tipped downwards, and the lower bank must be tipped upwards, 
so as to reduce the friction of the shuttles all possible when they are 
passing through the sheds. 

The round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in 
the harness on the upper shed, and while being woven this cloth is pulled 
around the rubbers bv the tension of the filling which is carried in the 
lower shuttle. This tension is greater than that carried in the upper shuttle, 
and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the outside rubber 
until it meets the back cloth weave. The upper and lower fillings are con¬ 
nected by what are known as tie threads. These threads are drawn in the 
harness at each side of the body warp, next to the edge, and are part of 
the binder warp. They are operated from the binder harness, but are 
only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as the center of the 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


41 





Fig. 4.—Position of Roils in Relation to Breast Beam for Cross Shot Weaving 
































































































































































































42 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


web, instead of going all through both sheds, as do the balance of the 
binder warp. This movement is accomplished by the use of long looped 
harness eyes, which only carry these particular threads through the one shed. 

The binder movement, extending through the two sheds, is formed by a 
longer sweep from extra throw cams, or by the use of extended cam 
jacks, or by a combination of both. The balance of these goods may be 
regulated both by the warp and the filling, and any tendency towards curling 
may be corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either. 

Use of Different Stocks and Colors 

The use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different 
grades of stock in either shuttle. Colors may be used to match the face 
warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back. 
Silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing 
the character of the stock used for the back of the goods, which is not 
practicable in single shuttle work. 

All this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost, making this the 
most economical web produced. In the making of shoe goring, a con¬ 
siderable quantity of which is still used for inserts for house slippers, this 
is a very popular form of weaving, allowing for the production of a face 
having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the shoe leather, while 
the back may be perfectly plain and white. 

It is a method employed in combination with the jacquard, where 
fancy figures may be obtained on the face, using the cam movement for 
the back, binder and edge, the weave of which is the same for all of these 
warps, being simply a one up and one down. In such a combination the 
labor on the jacquard movement is much reduced, inasmuch as the travel 
of the lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection 
with single shuttle. 

The Overshot Method 

The overshot method, which we have previously referred to, is another 
form of double shuttle web which has in it elements of economy differing 
from the cross shot but equally important. This kind of weaving is designed 
as a substitute for silk jacquard webs, which it has to a great extent 
supplemented. Before its introduction it was customary to use a slow 
running “rise and fall” lay movement, when making a silk figure with the 
shuttle, putting in one pick of silk filling to each two body picks, so that 
the output of web was only about one-half of what is possible in overshot 
weaving. In the old method the silk used to pass from edge to edge of 
the goods at each pick of the figure shuttle, and where the figure did not 
appear it was buried between the upper and the lower cloths. 

In the overshot method the silk figure is bound down at the edge or 
border of the figure and none of the silk is entirely buried out of sight. 
In the overshot the body shuttle runs all the time, “while the figure or silk 
shuttle only runs with every alternate pick. The main body of the goods 
is woven in every respect the same as in a single shuttle web, and it may 
embrace all the weaves, such as plains, twills or fancies, which are common 
to single shuttle weaving. Arrangements are made, however, for the 
production of an auxiliary shed, by a movement which pulls certain threads 
above the main shed, and while these are open to pass the extra shuttle 
under them, and thus bind in the figure filling. The lower part of the 
lay has straight shuttles, while the upper bank of shuttles is tipped down 
to conform to the formation of the auxiliary shed they are designed to 
pass through. 

The binder threads from which the overshot figure is generally operated, 
are weighted very lightly so that the individual threads will easily stand 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


43 


the strain they will be subject to while making the auxiliary shed. The 
Crompton & Knowles overshot dobby is generally used for this purpose. 
This special machine is provided with two horizontal draw knives, operating 
any or all of the 30 hooks, and is so arranged that the connected warp 
threads may be lifted at either or both picks to the height of the main 
shed, or to the additional height of the auxiliary shed. 



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Fig. 5A.—Draft for Fig. 5 


In Fig. 5A is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering 23 
hooks, which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the 
binder harness, while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed, 
or the heavy pick, and working in unison with the rubber harness. It will 
be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not 
operate alike, but follow one pick behind the other. This is so arranged 















































































































































































44 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the 
silk in the goods, and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at 
the border of the figure. 

Making Overshot Designs 

In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk 
float too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should 
the design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary 
to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to 
break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp 
figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the 
dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as to 
work on the pick when the binder harness is down. 



rigs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design 

Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as 
the “matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the 
web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different points, 
the bindings forming the figure. 

Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of 
the gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy 
pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting 
cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in order 
that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this, each of 
these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are operated from 
the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the face thread in 
the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise them to the 
height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass under them. 










Chapter VI1. 


Making trills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel 
Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic 
Fabrics Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost 
Production of Pearl Edge—Special Fancy Drafts 

W O\ EiST elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that 
are not possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made 
mention of the trills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed 
by the fluting of 11011 -elastic sections produced by the contraction of the 
center part. 1 his same effect may also be used in the center of the goods. 
To accomplish this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses 
to operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on 
which the frill sections are drawn in. 

The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through 
one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The 
shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The 
operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in 
which the frill is brought up for a distance .and then buried inside the 
goods for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft. 



Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker 
Center 


The weave used for producing a frill may also he used in the center of 
the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will 
be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side of 
the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill. The 
insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber strands 
used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable to use a some¬ 
what heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to compensate for this. 
The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at Fig. 2A. 

Woven Shirred Effect 

Another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be 
seen at Fig. 3, where the center or rubber part of the web is made to 
imitate a shirred effect. In the regular method of shirring a piece of 
plain elastic web is used, under tension, and is passed through a sewing 

45 











46 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic 
material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side. W hen 
the web contracts, upon being released from tension, the non-elastic part 
forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web. At the same time the 


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remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side of the 
elastic part. 

The method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by 
an interchange of weaves, first making a short section of single cloth 







































































































































































































































































































































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


47 


and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave. There 
being no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths 
together, the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so 
formed. Upon the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths 
are thrown out, and appear as flutings on the web, while the side sections 
in which there is no rubber will compete the frill effect. This woven 
method has in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike, 
whereas in the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable 
and unfits it for many uses. It also eliminates the added expense of 
labor in assembling the different parts. 

Novel Decoration at Edges 

A novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy 
frill at Fig. 4. This may be produced by what is known as the draw-in 
method. This effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks 
of shuttles in a rise and fall lay, but is now made by using two threads 
of cabled silk coming from spools, these threads being worked by the 
harness the same as a warp. They are very lightly delivered by a 
delicately adjusted return spring arrangement. The threads are operated 
on a special harness, being passed through the harness eyes outside of all 
the other warp stock, and then through a dent in the front reed as far 
away from the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop 
required. 



The harness used for these threads stands still a given number of 
picks, and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in 
thread comes in contact with the shuttle filling, which then passes around it. 
As the shuttle returns through the open shed, the filling or weft pulls the 
easily running draw-in thread with it, until it comes in contact with other 
warp threads, which the filling passes around, and so stops the further 
pi ogress of the draw-in thread into the shed. The thread at the same time is 
carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the one in which 
the draw-in thread passes. Quite a variety of fancy effects may be 
produced in this manner. Threads of different materials and colors may be 
used and drawn across the face of the web at different points, and sel\ages 
of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the goods 
may be made. 








48 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Lappet Weaving 

Lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been 
extensively used, probably on account of the limitations of design obtainable 
by this style of weaving. Nevertheless, it affords opportunity for con¬ 
siderable elaboration at a very small cost. The loom attachment which 
permits the making of these patterns, which are somewhat similar to 
embroidery, is known as the lappet motion. Wherever it has been used 
it has been found to be serviceable. It can be attached either to a plain 
loom or a fancy loom. It is a system of levers operated by a chain com¬ 
posed of different sized balls, arranged according to the pattern desired. 

On the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the 
lay, which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls. They can 
also be raised and lowered as required by the design. Both these slides have 
generally three needles for each suspender web, which are spaced at equal 
distances apart, one or all of which may be threaded and used. W hen slides 
are lowered into the web, the shuttle filling or weft passes over the yarn 
which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth. Then by 
moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks, and each 
time binding the thread into the cloth, the various lappet patterns are 
produced. 



The figures are mostly irregular trailing patterns, as shown at Fig. 5, 
and well adapted to narrow goods. Dots of different sizes and in different 
positions may also lie made, but it is not practical to get the finely 
finished lines which can be obtained from other methods where there is 
positive control of any particular warp threads or group of thi-eads, as 
for instance in jacquards and overshots. 

The sliding bar of the lappet motion may vary slightly in its move¬ 
ments so that the needles will not always pierce through at exactly the 
same points at each repeat of the pattern, although the general design will 
be maintained. The threads which feed the needles should be of good 
clear ply material, free from slubs and irregularities, so that they will 
pass freely through the needle eyes, and they should have enough turns to 
enable them to withstand the friction resulting from the backward and for¬ 
ward sliding movements of the lay passages. The yarn must be delivered 
from independent spools, which work Avith perfect freedom, and measures 
should be taken to control the stock by the use of delicate springs. 



































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


49 


lhe material used for the lappet figure is perhaps best run from 
grooved spools which are so weighted that they feed easily through the 
needles at every forward movement of the lay. 

Pearl Edge 

An effective and inexpensive method of elaborating a silk frill is 
found in what is known as the pearl edge. This adds much to the richness 
of the goods, besides giving the appearance of greater width at slight 
increase of cost. The pearl edge is produced by a series of fine steel edge 
wires, which are carried in separate dents of the front reed outside of the 
trill itself. Each wire is operated by a special harness which brings it into 
the weaving - lines as desired, so that the filling may pass around it and 
make pearl loops at these particular places. It will be found necessary to 
use hard steel dents in the front reed to work the wires in, otherwise the 
dents will soon be cut from the constant wear of the wires. 

A silk frill may also he much enriched by special fancy drafts. These 
allow for the operation of groups of threads so that the filling passes over 
and under them and show up the luster of the silk filling in blocks con¬ 
trasting with the more plainly woven parts. An example of this is shown 
at Fig. fi. 





Chapter VIII. 


Designs Produced bij Use of Jacquard in Connection with Cams or Head 
Motion—Weaving Buttonholes in Webs—Manufacture of Surgical 
Belts and Bandages—Combination Woven and Printed 
Designs—Method of Printing 

I N previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production 
of elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms. These machines are moie 
or less limited in capacity, and the stock must he operated in groups of 
threads. Considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns best 
adapted to these looms. In jacquard weaving each separate thread is con¬ 
trollable, and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the space 
available on the face of the fabric. 

Of course certain general rules, which have been laid down for the 
production of designs on fancy looms, are applicable to the making of 
jacquard designs. For example, where sunken effects are aimed at it is 
necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock, just as it is in the 
fancy loom method; otherwise uneven or “cockled” web will result on 
account of these being too much buried stock at some particular point, 
which prevents uniform contraction. 


Designs in Sunken Effects 

Fig. 1 is an illustration of a pattern where the sunken effect is well 
distributed. This pattern also shows the operation of two sets of figure 
threads brought up alternately. Both warps are buried to allow the back 
filling to appear in relief. This indicates the wide scope of design possible 
on a single shuttle, which is almost unlimited. 

Fig. 2 illustrates a double shuttle design which has a sunken warp 
effect in connection with a silk figure. It also serves to illustrate the effect 
of skein dyed silk for decorative purposes. Fig. 3 shows still another 
type of double shuttle design, in Avhich a parti-colored face warp lends 
an entirely different effect to a design. Fig. 4 is an example of three 
shuttle work where one shuttle is used for the ground, and two shuttles 
for the silk figure. 

It would be easy materially to enlarge on the various types of design 
possible in jacquard weaving of elastic webs but this is not necessary. If 
a straight tie-up is used the scope of design is almost unlimited. The 
custom generally adopted is to operate the back, rubber and gut from chain 
or cam harness, as the same movement of all these threads is maintained 
continuously, and to operate the face and binder from the jacquard. 
Fig. 5 is an illustration of a fully rigged jacquard suspender loom, having 
two machines mounted on it, and with the back and rubber harness operated 


bv the fancv head. 


Jacquard Tie-Up 


Too much emphasis cannot be laid on the necessity for exercising the 
greatest care in the jacquard tie-up and the leveling of the strings. As 
already stated in a previous article, any failure in the initial arrangements 
will result in constant trouble and faulty Avork. Mispicks and floats may 
not be serious in many types of non-elastic fabrics, but in elastic Avebs a 
float Avill so pearl up on construction that the goods will be ruined. Once 
again, and of the greatest importance, measures should surely be taken to 
haA 7 e some form of screAv adjustment for the raising and loAvering of the 
jacquard machines to compensate for expansion and contraction of the 
strings, caused by changing atmospheric conditions. 


Weaving Buttonholes 

In the assembling and making up of narroAv elastic fabrics, particularly 
suspenders, it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished products. 


50 


51 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 

































52 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary buttonhole 
sewing machines, but on account of the difficulty arising in the controlling 
of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working, a very unsightly 
buttonhole often results. It has therefore been found advisable to weave the 
buttonholes, particularly for what is known as the “Guyot” suspender, 
where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for tlie back ends, and 
non-elastic straps, also having buttonholes, are used for the front straps. 

The loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired 
place, and at the same rate of speed at wdiich the plain part is woven. 
This is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles, Doth of which are 
running in the same direction at every pick of the loom, but only one of 



JMk. 5.—.Jacquard Suspender loom With Two Machines and Fancy Head 


which, (the upper) is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of the 
goods is being woven, the other bank running ‘‘dead” underneath the goods 
during the operation. When the buttonhole is about to be made, two dis¬ 
tinct sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged, 
the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other 
half, until the completion of the buttonhole. Then one shed is again 
formed in place of the two, and the upper bank resumes the operation of 
weaving the plain part of the strap. 

This process of changing from the single to the double shed is accom¬ 
plished by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two sections, 
to which are attached two harness frames, in each of which one side of 
the strap is drawn. While weaving the plain part of the strap both sec¬ 
tions of the cam jack opei’ate in unison, running side by side from the 






















ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


53 


same cam, but when the buttonhole is “called on” a device for spreading 
apart each pair of cam jacks is operated, and the two sheds are then 
formed. At the same time a lever movement changes the position of the 
lay, so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and properly 
engage the two sheds. 

Facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the 
position and length of the buttonholes. When the lower shuttle is not 
engaged in the buttonhole shed, the filling may run loosely beneath the 
goods, and require trimming oft' between the buttonholes. This trimming 
may be avoided by operating the center binder thread, putting the same 
in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this 
particular thread may be dropped below T the main shed and allow the 
lower shuttle to engage it. By this process the thread is bound in the 
goods at every pick of the loom and does not need trimming. 

The elastic back end, having a buttonhole in it, is also made on a spe¬ 
cial loom, which has a “rise and fall” movement of the lay. It has a chain 
fancy head with what is known as a Gem multiplier on it for regulating 
the length of the plain part, so that one repeat of the plain weave can be 
multiplied indefinitely and the buttonhole chain called on as desired. 

In making up sections of elastic webs for various purposes, particu¬ 
larly when required to be attached to garments, it is often found that the 
joinings are bulky and unsightly on account of their thickness. A web is 
made on the special loom just described of such character that it does 
away with this objection. A section of plain Aveb may be woven of any 
desired length, and then another section made in which the upper and 
lower cloth are woven separately for a given distance. After being taken 
from the loom this double section is cut in the middle, so that the non¬ 
elastic part may be used for attaching to the garment When thus made 
the rubber and binder lie “dead” between the two cloths, and are trimmed 
off after the non-elastic part is cut in two. 

Making Abdominal Belts 

There is a growing demand for webs of various characters for sur¬ 
gical and orthopedic purposes. One of these which calls for special at¬ 
tention is a web used in the manufacture of abdominal belts. The width 
varies from about four inches, where it is used to support the back, to 
about six inches at the part which is used for the support of the abdomen. 

Such a web is constructed in the regular manner employed on plain 
webs, except that it is woven in a deep front reed made to taper from top 
to bottom, from fine to coarse. This reed is arranged in a reed pocket 
attached to the lay bed, and is designed to slide up and down behind it. 
Underneath the lay is an adjustable screw mechanism, which is so operated 
that it can be made to remain stationary for a given length of time, and 
then gradually work up and down in a given period. This allows a web 
to be produced with a formation similar to that shown at Fig. 6. 

The rubber cords lie close together while weaving the first narrow part, 
and gradually spread while operating at the wide part, returning to their 
original position for the other narrow end. If properly constructed the 
o-oods will lie perfectly flat at the narrow ends, and the opening up of the 
cords by the spreading of the reed dents at the wide center will give more 
freedom to the individual strands of rubber in this section, which will cause 
the goods to “belly” at this point. This rounding formation especially 
adapts them for the purposes for which they are intended. Various modifi¬ 
cations of the taper web may be made in this manner, but the same general 
plan is applicable to all. 



54 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Printing Designs on Elastic Web 
The printing of designs on elastic web is a form of embellishment 
which opens up large possibilities for variety of effect, and adds much to 
the selling quality of many webs at slight additional cost. Moreover it 
gives an opportunity for changing the character of many woven patterns 
which may not have proved good sellers, but when printed will often become 
the most popular patterns offered. A woven striped effect with a few 
crossbars printed on, transforming it into a plaid, changes its character 
entirely. Or a few dots distributed over a pattern hitherto undesirable 
may make big changes in its selling qualities. 

But apart from this the field of original design is practically unlim¬ 
ited. The work is most satisfactorily accomplished by using oil inks of 
various colors, making proper arrangements for the drying so that the 
colors are absolutely fast. Colors should not be used which are more or 
less fugitive and liable to spread in the process of finishing. 

The goods, when printed, are run loosely in cans and allowed to stand 
a reasonable time for proper absorbtion of the ink. They are then run 
slowly through a heated chamber to set the colors, a number of stiips 
being put through the drying chamber at one time. The pattern rolls are 
best made with the design raised on the face of the pattern, and the ink 
uniformly distributed on the raised part. C are should be used to have 
the set of the rolls so adjusted that the part where the figure does not 
appear will not come in contact with the ink roll. 

This method has proved better than using engraved rolls, besides being 
less expensive. After the design is drawn it is photo-engraved on a plate 
of a given length so that it may be shaped and fitted around the printing 
roll, great care being taken to have the repeat properly connected, par¬ 
ticularly where the pattern is a continuous one without any break in the 



Fig. 7 is a sketch of a printing machine. The design roll A is five 
inches in diameter and constructed of a number of thicknesses of maple 
wood, glued and screwed firmly together, with the grain well crossed to 
prevent shrinkage and warping. The design plate is carefully fitted 
around and pinned securely to this roll. The rubber covered rolls B and 
C carry the ink and are positively driven. The small roll D, while revolving 
by frictional contact with roll C, is also vibrated sidewise by a cam- 

driven lever E, so as to distribute the ink uniformly. The rolls are run 

on steel centers and can be so adjusted as to center any given pattern 
on the goods. 

All the roll carriers are fitted in a taper groove which is planed to 

the full length of the frame bed, so that the pressure of the different 

rolls can be accurately adjusted. The machines are easily operated and 
print 12,000 to 15,000 yards of web a day. 

















Chapter IX. 


Making TT arps for Elastic Fabrics—Quills for Use in Shuttles—Effect of 
Finishing Processes Must Be Calculated from Beginning of Web 
Construction—Details of Processes and Machines for 
Different Styles of Goods—Care to Avoid Acid in 
Goods — Rubber’s Reaction on Copper 

T HE making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics, particularly for double 
cloth webs, involves considerable thought and care in view of the 
number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric, and 
the different weaves employed. Owing to the contraction of the rubber, 
it is essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between 
the face and the back of the goods. 

This necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the 
face and the back are identical, no matter how the size of the yarns used 
may vary, and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different. 
All this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade. 
These conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back. Then 
again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the 
take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various 
weaves. 

It is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser 
material for the back. Of course it would not be practical to put these 
together on the same beam. The crowded condition of material used 
necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections. The 
binder, which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns, also 
requires a special warp. 

Selvage Under Special Control 

The general appearance of the finished product being so dependent 
upon the character of the selvage, it is advisable to have these threads under 
special control, so that they may be treated in the best possible manner 
to produce a satisfactory shed, and allow the filling to get a good 
clearance. So as to secure a smooth well-rounded edge it is therefore 
necessary to have this on a special beam. 

It will be seen, therefore, that in an ordinary piece of double cloth 
elastic web there will be required at least five warps: back, face, binder, 
edge and gut. Figures and fancy effects will often necessitate auxiliary 
warps. With very fine webs, having six threads to a cord, it is often found 
necessary further to split up the face to obtain proper working conditions. 
Figs. 1 and 1A show a six-cord web, together with warp calculations for 
the goods. 

The employment of so many warps to each strip of web, which are 
automatically delivered by the friction let-off levers described in a previous 
article, prohibits the use of warps where the threads are equally distributed 
across the beam, as is the practice in wide fabrics, the method usually 
being to tape them on the beams. 

Warping Machine 

The required spools for the number of threads in the warp are put in 
a creel, each thread passing under an electrically connected wire, which is 
held out of contact by the running thread while the warp is making. If 

55 


56 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


the thread should break, the wire would drop and make an electrical 
connection Avhich would automatically stop the machine. Fig. 2 shows a 
view of a warping machine such as is used for this work. They are 
generally constructed so as to allow for two or four beams, all of which 
may be run together or started, stopped or run individually, as required. 



Figr. 1.—Six-Cord AVeb 



Edge — 26 threada 40/2 Baok -— 48 threads 2o/2 

Binder - £6 threads 30/2 Out - 24 threads 3o/2 

Face-96 threads 40/2 Figure - 96 threads 40/2 

Reed 20 per inch 

Picks in loon 66 per inch 

Finiehed plokB 84 per inch 



Dofcby Figure 
Back 


^,^-Face 

--Binder 

-Out 


Left Edge 24 Repeats Right Edge Chain Draft 

HARNESS DRAFT 


Fig;. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig;. 1 


Each beam is friction driyen so that a uniform speed is obtained in 
the delivery of the yarn from the spools. Beams are also so arranged 
that they will stop automatically on reaching a given size. Each warp 
thread is passed through a pair of reeds, fitted with dead stops in the 
center of alternating dent spaces, so that leases may be put in the warps 
at fixed intervals to assist in keeping them straight in the looms. 











































































































































































































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


57 


In taping the warps on the beams, it is customary in some mills to run 
the threads over a small steel Hanged pulley about one and one-half inches 
wide, which will keep each thread in its proper position and make the tape 
absolutely straight and flat as it leads to the beam. A perfect fabric is 
largely dependent upon how well the warps have been made, but it must 
not be forgotten that a good warp may be spoiled by a poor beam. 

Beam flanges should not lie flat against the warp creel standards, 
but should be kept clear by the formation of the head near the barrel, 
which should have enough prominence at this point to keep the flanges 
clear, and thus reduce the friction to a minimum. The edges of the flanges 
should be perfectly smooth so as to allow for uniform delivery by the 
contact lever. Much of the beam abuse which occurs in many mills might 
be avoided by provision being made for beam racks at convenient points. 



Fi K . ? —'Warping; Maeliinp 


Quills for Shuttles 

The making of proper quills for use in the shuttle is of no small 
importance, for on this the evenness and uniformity of the selvage very 
much depends. When flanged wood quills are used, the guides should be 
carefully adjusted so that the filling is uniformly spread over the entire 
length of the quill, allowing for perfect freedom at each end without 
dragging. Quills should not be overloaded. In drum pressure quilling, the 
automatic stop should be so arranged that the quill will be filled even 
with the outer edge of the flanges and no more. 

Should there be any tendency to hardness m the material used for 
filling, it may be found advisable to run the thread over a plush pad on 
which' has been applied a light application of cocoanut oil, but great 
care should be exercised not to overdo this as there is nothing so hurtful 
to rubber goods as oil. 








58 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


The quills should only be of sufficient length to allow for uniform 
delivery from the shuttle without dragging at the ends. ' To assist in this 
elongated shuttle eyes are preferable to round ones, so as to shorten the 
angle at which the filling leaves the quill when running from the extreme 
end. Thumb bits should be so adjusted that the delivery is uniform from 
start to finish. The quill flanges should not lie flat against the sides of 
the quill opening, but should be pointed at the ends so as to reduce the 
friction. Quill wires should be of hard tempered steel and be perfectly 
straight at all times. When it becomes necessary to run narrow goods in 
wide spaces, recoil springs should be provided to gather up the loose filling. 

Care Required in Finishing 

The finishing of elastic fabrics is a process which demands great care, 
and has to be taken into calculation from the beginning of the web con¬ 
struction. Calculations must always be made as to what effect heat, 

moisture and sizing will have upon the covered up elastic threads, confined 
as they are in a multiple of small cavities and under high tension. As 
soon as the softening influence of heat and steam operate upon the 
covering of cotton yarn which confines these threads, the rubber strands 
begin to assert themselves and contraction at once takes place. To what 
extent this can go must be predetermined in fixing values, and a certain 
degree of uniformity of contraction arranged for. 

Webs which are perfectly flat and straight when taken from the 
looms are liable to be transformed into unshapely products and completely 
ruined by unsuitable finishing. For instance, take a web with a twill 

center and a plain border which is apparently flat and satisfactory at the 
loom. The effect of heat and steam upon such a web will be to contract the 
soft woven center more than the harder woven plain border, which will 
cause the web to be long-sided and curl. Such a condition must be 
anticipated in the construction of the web and provision made to offset its 
occurrence. Sometimes it must be met by a change in the size of some of 
the yarns used, or number of threads employed at given points, or perhaps 
added gut threads must be introduced to stop contraction in certain places. 
It must always be remembered that we are dealing with a very much 

alive element when we are finishing rubber goods, and that unexpected 

results may at any time arise. 

Finishing Machines 

Finishing machines vary both in design and capacity, but the general 
principle is the same in all. A series of drying cans are arranged for the 
application of the sizing mixture. Some machines are laid out horizon¬ 
tally and some are upright. In the longitudinal layout the machines are 
more easily accessible in their different parts and under better control, 
while the upright machines are more compact and occupy less floor space. 
Fig. 3 shows a horizontal machine of the latest type. It has a drying 
capacity of eleven cylinders, 24 inches wide, 36 inches in diameter, allowing 
for a web contact of about 100 feet. These cylinders are arranged in two 
decks so as to economize in floor space. 

The goods first pass through a pair of independently driven circular 
brushes, fixed at the feed end of the machine, to clear them from lint and 
dirt before being steamed and dried. They next pass between two pairs of 
nip rolls between which are fixed the steaming and sizing attachments. 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


59 



Fij;. 3.—Narrow Fabric Finishing Marl line 
























60 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


The goods pass through dry high pressure steam which is confined in a 
steam chest. They pass into and out of this chest through slots under¬ 
neath the cover. A trough carries the condensed steam away from the 
goods and prevents dripping, otherwise they would be spotted. 

The steam pressure must be carefully controlled so as to get uniform 
shrinkage of the goods. The steaming process softens the cotton, and the 
rubber threads, which are under considerable tension, gradually creep up 
and contract the goods. The steaming also makes the web more absorbent 
and thus prepares it for the size bath, through which it is passed under 
submerged brass rollers. The size is kept at a uniform heat by steam 
heated copper coils. The web then passes through the second pair of nip 
rolls, which are worked under pressure so as to squeeze out the size 
before the Aveb reaches the drying cans. 

Allowance for Contraction 

The first of the dry cans is usually covered with cloth, so as to 
absorb any size which may remain on the surface of the goods and allow 
it to penetrate by further softening. As the goods continue to pass over 
the hot cans a gradual process of contraction takes place. This contraction 
is provided for by a corresponding regulation of the speed of the cans. 
Intermediate expansion pulleys are provided for this purpose, so that 
the speed adjustments can readily be made to meet the requirements of 
different kinds of web. 

The two pairs of front rubber nip rolls are likewise independently 
driven, so as to provide for the shrinkage Avhich takes place at the steam 
box and size bath. At the delivery end of the machine the goods pass 
through a set of nip rolls which are belt driven from cone pulleys, so as 
to be able to deliver the goods at the speed they leave the last drying 
cans. From these last nip rolls, which are fixed quite high, they drop 
into receiving cans or boxes. 

Ten to twenty-five strips running side by side are finished at one time. 
Adjustable guides are provided at different places on the machines to keep 
the goods running in proper position. The speed of the machine is usually 
governed by a Reeves transmission, and the delivery of the goods ranges 
from 10 to 15 yards per minute, according to the requirements of finishing. 
Three inches per yard is generally allowed for shrinkage, but this again 
is determined by the goods. Neglect at any point in this process may so 
interfere with the calculated shrinkage that values and costs are materially 
changed. 

New patterns and grades should be tested for shrinkage as soon as the 
goods come from the loom, as short lengths made in sample looms are not 
at all times reliable. Frequent tests are also advisable to see that original 
conditions are maintained, as changes made by heat, steam and speed are 
always liable to occur. 

The immersing process is used mostly for single cloth garter webs. 
Double cloth webs having a warp pile on the face are sized on the back 
only. Exceptions are made on double cloth white webs used for the corset 
trade, which are bathed with a very light size and often tinted in this 
bathing process to the desired tone of white to match the cloths they are 
to be associated with. Where the goods are sized on the back only the 
effect of this has to be considered when they are constructed, and provision 
made to maintain a proper balance under such conditions. 

In frilled webs the elastic portion only is sized, so as not to interfere 
in any way with the soft flutings of the frill. This is done by guiding 
each strip over narrow pulleys which are run through the size bath. The 
size accumulated on these pulleys is absorbed by the web passing over them. 





ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


61 


Acid in Goods 

The requirements of the trade are so varied, and the types of web so 
numerous, that no formula for size is suitable for general use. Care must 
be taken, however, to avoid any sizes containing acids. Results from the 
use of such preparations may seem excellent at the machine but later on, 
when the goods are made up and come in contact with metal parts, the 
metal is quickly tarnished, and the result may be heavy claims for damage. 

It may be well to note here that the sulphur used in the process of 
vulcanizing the rubber has the effect of blackening the copper cans and the 
rolls over which the goods must pass. This can be effectively prevented by 



Fisr. I-—Narrow Fabric Singer 

having the cans nickel plated, thus doing away with much risk of dirty 
goods, and of constant scourings and washing of the different parts. 

Provision should be made for sufficient depth in the sizing pans so that 
they will hold a liberal supply of size. Replenishment should be made at 
regular intervals and the heat maintained at a uniform tempeiatuie to 
get satisfactory results. It is advisable to make provisions to tia\el the 
web over the top of the machine for a distance after immersion in the 
size bath, and before it strikes the hot cans, so as to allow for proper 
absorption of the size. 




















62 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


All these details are best worked out by experience. Webs are gen¬ 
erally fed into the machine from racks after being properly wound up, 
and great care must be taken to avoid any variable tension on the webs 
when entering the machine. 

On lisle webs, a process of gassing or singeing takes place prior to 
finishing for the purpose of removing any fuzz or fibre from the goods. 
Fig. 4 shows a gassing machine used for this purpose. It is run at a 
high rate of speed and several strips are gassed at once. When the machine 
is running the flames are close to the web, but upon the stopping of the 
machine the flames are carried away out of contact. In gassing white and 
colors, great care must be exercised to have the gas mixture correct and 
free from any carbonizing effect on the goods. 



Chapter X. 


Embossing Webs—Type of Construction and Design for Which Process is 
Adapted.—Braiding Flat Elastic Fabrics , Plain Cords for Athletics 
and Airplanes, and Fancy Cords—How Sizes Are Indicated 
—Difference Between Woven and Braided 
Effects 

T HE embossing of classic fabrics is a form of elaboration which is not 
adapted for long stretch webs. 

It has been confined mostly to goods of short stretch, suitable for 
use in the manufacture of suspenders. In long stretch webs the patterns 
will not stand out prominently for any length of time. After repeated 
stretchings and wear, they lose much of the desirable sharpness of detail, 
and become flat and indistinct. Twills and loose weaves of a similar 
character should be avoided for embossing. The best results are obtained on 
firm, closely woven plain webs which take the impress of the design with 
clearness and retain it for a greater length of time. 

Designs Suitable for Embossing 

In planning such work it is well to aviod designs which run for any 
great length with the warp, and to select effects where the general run 
of the design is at an angle to the direction of the warp threads, rather 
than with them. This will prolong the life of the figure. 

The process is similar to that used in embossing paper and leatheroid 
goods. The machine must be heavy and made to stand considerable pressure. 
It should be run slowly so as to allow the goods to get sufficient heat 
while in contact with the embossing roll. The webs should pass through a 
steam softening process just ahead of the embossing. This steaming is 
done by having a perforated steam pipe confined in a covered box, the 
web passing through slots at either side. It puts the goods in condition 
to receive and retain the impress of the figure. 

Embossing Machine 

Figs. 1 and 2 show a machine used for embossing elastic fabrics. It 
consists chiefly of a heavy frame A, a case hardened steel roll B on which 
the design has previously been engraved, and a hard paper roll C. The 
engraved steel roll B is heated with steam and may be subjected to heavy 
pressure by turning the hand wheels D. 

When putting in a new design and accompanying paper roll, it is 
necessary to run the machine empty for a few hours, gradually applying 
the pressure at the hand wheels in order to mesh the design into the paper 
roll so as to get a strong impress on the goods. When moire-antique or 
water effects are desired, the embossing rolls are engraved with straight 
lines of the desired distance apart, and the goods are fed into the machine 
after passing over irregularly formed rollers, which prevent them from 
going through the machine straight. Fig. 3 is an example of this effect, 
with the gros grain in the middle water-marked, and bordered with a 
fancy effect not embossed. 

Braiding Elastic Fabrics 

The braiding of elastic fabrics is a simple process when compared with 
weaving. It does not lend itself to any great variety of fancy effects, 
but a great variety of elastic goods are braided, which serve many purposes. 
Round cords are made in sizes from a single strand of rubber thread, such 
as is used for the protection of eye glasses, to the covering of multiple 


63 


64 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


rubber threads for making a cord which may be one inch or more in 
diameter. Some of these cords are used by professional athletes in 
acrobatic work. Large quantities of heavy cord are now used for shock 
absorbers in the manufacture of airplanes, and they are much used for 
corset laces and doll cords. 





Fie. 3.—Embossed Water-Marked 
Effeet on Middle Stripe 


Fig. t.—At Top, Cord I'sed by Acrobats; 
At Bottom, Exercise Cord in Two Colors 


The braiding machines are small and compact, and are generally 
operated in gangs on benches. One operator can care for many machines, 
as they stop automatically when a thread breaks. Each machine may 
consist of a variable number of spot^l carriers, according to the character 
of the work they are engaged on. Carriers are made to travel around 





































































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


65 


cam-like giooves formed in the bed of the machine, being operated by a 
chain of gears which propel them around a predetermined course. Gears 
and slots are so arranged that the carriers are made to cross and recross 
each other in their passage, so that the various threads of yarn carried 
aie plaited around the strands of rubber. The spools used on the carriers 
are specially designed, and have a series of notches on the upper end, 
into which a stop will drop upon the breaking of any of the different 
covering threads, automatically stopping the machine. 

The rubber is carried on a beam such as is used in weaving. These 
beams are grooved on either side for receiving friction cords or "belts, on 
which are hung weights so as to govern the let-off of the beams and keep 
the rubber at a high tension. The beams are hung on brackets underneath 
the machines. If cords are being made, the rubber is delivered through a 
central hole in the bed of the machine and fed up so that the covering 
threads may be plaited around it. As there is no friction on the rubber 




Fig\ 5.—At Bottom. Flat Braid Contracted; Fig:. 6.—At Bottom, Braided Frill; At 

At Top, the Same Braid Before Contraction Top, the Same Frill Before Contraction 

threads delivered in this manner (like the friction in weaving caused by 
the repeated passage of the reed), the rubber can be worked at the 
highest possible tension without fear of chafing or breaking, and economical 
results in this respect are obtainable. 

Flat Braids 

Where flat braids are made the rubber threads are passed separately 
through different holes in the machine bed and the yarn is braided in and 
out between these threads, binding them . together side by side so that 
they are flat as in a woven fabric. By this method each of the different 
covering threads passes from one side of the flat web to the other, giving 
them a diagonal direction across the fabric. This diagonal crossing and 
recrossing of the covering threads allows for the introduction of different 
colors, which produce a plaid-like effect. 

In making the flat braid, when the individual rubber threads pass 
through the separate holes on the outer part of the bed plate of the 
machine, they all gather to one common center after they are through. 
This causes the rubber threads, when they are at a very high tension, to 
draw at a very acute angle at the edge of the hole, which necessitates 
running them at a lower tension than is desirable for economy. It also 
introduces a liability to break under the strain. In some mills this is cared 
for by passing each thread over a small case hardened steel roller, thus 
avoiding the friction at the edge of the hole. 







66 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Sizes of Cords 

The sizes of cords are determined by the Birmingham wire gauge as 
follows (Diameters in decimal parts of an inch) : 

Size 1.. .300 Size 3.. .259 Size 5.. .220 Size?.. .180 Size 9.. .148 
Size 2.. .284 Size 4.. .238 Size 6.. .203 Size 8.. .165 Size 10.. .134 

In sizing or measuring the cord, it is passed easily into the gauge, so 
that it hugs the sides without crowding. Any cords made heavier than a 
No. 1 are designated by fractions of one inch in eighths. 

It becomes necessary in making heavy round cords, such as are used 
by athletes and in the manufacture of airplanes, to have a very durable 
covering over the strands of rubber. Such a covering is put on by using 
double deck machines, where above the regular machine there is another 
bed plate having a second set of carriers which travel around the braided 
fabric coming up from the lower deck. In such cases the inner covering is 
generally a cheap coarse material, while the upper deck of carriers braid 
the outer covering around it, which is of a higher grade material, often a 
highly glazed polished thread. 

Machines are made of a variable number of carriers to suit goods of 
different character that are required. Provision is made to carry the rubber 
beam in hanging brackets underneath the machine, which are of sufficient 
strength and firmness to carry the maximum weight necessary for governing 
the rubber tension. Above the machine there is a gear-driven take-up 
shaft, on which are tension rolls to govern the feed of the goods when 
braiding. The speed of these rolls can be regulated by change gears of 
various sizes. The goods are then fed on a belt-driven spool. On the very 
heavy goods it is necessary to pass them through other press rolls to pre¬ 
vent any slipping back when feeding from the braiders. 

Fancy Braided Cords 

The wide range of goods of this character, covering so many varied 
uses, makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction. 
In the making of braids and Vienna cords, the general methods are much 
the same as those described for braiding the round cords, except that the 
travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed up 
singly, instead of in a group, so that the carriers may pass in and out 
between them. A different machine is required for the various widths and 
number of strands of rubber used. Two carriers are required for each 
strand of rubber used and one over. For example, an eight strand braid 
requires 17 carriers, while a 10 strand requires 21, and so on. The width 
of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods 
determined' upon and provided for in the take-up; also by the size and 
chaiacter of the material used for covering. 

On account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when 
braiding, it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will produce 
variable widths. This is not so with a woven elastic fabric, inasmuch as 
the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same width is 
maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise. In braiding, the threads 
move both across and lengthwise of the fabric, taking the place of both 
warp and filling, therefore increased contraction, no matter whether it is 
produced from the use of heavier rubber, or changed material or take-up, 
results in greater width, inasmuch as the lengthwise position of the threads 
is brought into a new position which is more of a crosswise formation. 

This diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for 
very effective plaid effects, but this is the limit of color elaboration. A 
fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at 
the outer edges. 




Chapter XT. 

WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR 


Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are 

Obtained — Cloth Construction 

U NTIL recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from 
plain piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away 
with much of this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly 
shaped and formed for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable 
lengths. It is adapted to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done aAvay 
with and a collar is produced which combines shape, comfort and appear¬ 
ance. Much labor in collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this 
method pf production. 

There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the 
production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is 
devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van 
Heusen collar is that it is Avoven in such a manner that when it leaves the 
loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer part, 
with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining together 
of the two parts as formerly. 

The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a 
greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band, 
properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar 
in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the 
scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production of a 
variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are different in 
many respects from the making of a flat fabric. 

Heavy Loom Required 

The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to with¬ 
stand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the filling, where 
an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual piece must be 
carried. The looms which are now being used have from 12 to 16 pieces, 
so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid indeed properly to 
care for the weight carried on the combined pieces, and maintain uniform 
picking. In order also to get the requisite shed opening, the strain on the 
cams and cam jacks is severe, so that provision for ample strength at these 
parts is essential. 

Cone-Shaped Take-Up Roll 

The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a cone- 
shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1 
inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight roll, 
which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the slack 
delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of the 
swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight roll to set 
in proper position over the cone. 

At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone 
.shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1 
the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a 
free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at 
least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over 
which the cloth passes. 


67 


68 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Woven in Three Widths 

The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4^4 inches, 4% inches and 
514 inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so as 
to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed over 
these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side of the 
web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into sections and 
carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect clearance in 
the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly. 

The Weave 

The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face, 
back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face and 
4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads 
required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one. 

WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR 

4J4 Inch 4 Inch 5 l /i Inch 

No. of Threads Weight No. of Threads No. of Threads 

Warps (60/2) Carried Warps (60/2) Warps (60/2) 


Face .2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119 

Face .2 82 7 lbs. each 2 92 2 104 

Back .1 198 13 lbs. each 1 218 2 238 

Back .1 164 12 lbs. each 1 184 2 208 

Binder .1 99 10 lbs. each 1 109 1 119 

Binder .1 78 7 lbs. each 1 88 1 100 

Gut .2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119 

Gut .2 78 7 lbs. each 2 88 2 100 


It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back 
rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for 2 back 
and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which will 
allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which together 



Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth 


with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it convenient 
to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads straight and 
confined to the limitations of space available. 

Method of Reeding 

The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to 
each dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in 
using a 26*4 dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in 































ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


69 


the next, splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work 
much easier, and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” 
caused by the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the 
bleaching process. 

The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the 
collar is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at 
the desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position 






o 







o 







o 



BACK 

FACE 

back 

face 

BINDER 

. Gut 




o 







0 







o 




0 







0 







o 













o 







o 







o\ 






■ 







■ 







■ 


• 

• 


J 

J 



♦ 

• 


l 




• 

• 


J 





5 /xckcafs Ccve/u/nc^ £l dervfs 


Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar 





of the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to 
meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style 
of the collar desired. 

There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are 
more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P. 
yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached 
afterwards. 





















































Knitted Narrow Fabrics 

By William Davis, M.A. 

Biancli of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Tarn 
Testing Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for 
TT ires and Cables , Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for 
Trimmings—Use of Core Thread to Give Strength 


K NITTING machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions 
and adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines. 
Several important concerns in this line have recently been active in 
producing types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow 
fabrics for various purposes. 

The ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been 
recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge how 
closely they match the original sample, because in knitting there is not the 
necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting. The machine 
generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of stocking knitter 
containing 96 or 112 needles. If the machine is only to be employed as a 
sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a full stocking, 
machine, because in this work it is never necessary to use the ribber or 
dial which is always supplied. 

The work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning 
factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is satisfactory 
for the purpose. It is usually quite suitable to work the machine by hand, 
owing to the small lengths required and the frequent changes necessary 
when testing different colors and qualities. 

The latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the 
bearded needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also 
owing to the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give 
good work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions. 
It is also used as a means of producing samples of color, as the various 
colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine. 

This type of frame with the needles stationary, and revolving cams and 
thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for 
knitting gas mantles from ramie. The yarn is working in long lengths 
on a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and 
this fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being 
produced. Mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different 
diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose. 

In most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven 
metal material knitted into fabric on such machines, and intended to be 
used for cleaning pots and pans in household work. The wire has a sharp 
edge so as to grip the matter to be removed. Knitting the metal material 
into looped form enables the product to do its work Avith the greatest 
efficiency. 

Another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what 
are known as meat bags, with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary 
mutton and beef are covered prior to transport. These bags are usually 

71 


72 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch needle, 
and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the needles a 
gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation of air as well 
as affording a clean method of handling the meat and protecting it in the 
course of transport on ship, train and truck. 

Plain Knitted Tube 

Examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products 
of the narrow fabric branch of the trade. It will be evident at once what 
an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the knitting 
industry. Fig. 1 showns a plain knitted fabric worked in circular form 
on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have 40 needles in 
the circumference, so that in this tube, front and back, are 40 stitches 
shown here in flat form. 

It is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering 
wires and cables which slide inside the fabric. It has more elasticity than 
woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more simple 
and direct manner. It. should be pointed out, however, that this fabric is 
susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a little further strain 



will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner. Thus it is clear that it cannot 
be used by itself to any great extent in cases where great sti’ain or pull will 
be applied to it. Made in suitable materials, there is nothing to hinder 
this tube from serving as lamp wicks. 

Introduction of Fancy Stitch 

Fig. 2 shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one 
needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known as 
“tuck” work. In this work the needle in question is made to hold its thread 
for one course without knocking over its loop, and takes a second thread on 
the next course so that two threads are knocked over together, giving rise 
to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration. 

This effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch 
which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine, with the result 
that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles unless it 
receives a specially deep draw down, which it gets every second course. All 


















ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


73 


the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with the single 
stitches in the rest of the tube. In a machine with 20 needles in the circum¬ 
ference, one needle would be inserted with this extra long latch to give a 
tuck stitch right down the tube. 

As regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made 
to show, this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube. 
According to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in 
the middle or at the side. 

Further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in Figs. 3 
and 4, made on the same diameter of machine. In Fig. 3 the tuck stitch 
is made both front and back of the tape; that is, a long latch needle is 
inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the 
circumference in place of the single line in Fig. 2. In Fig. 3 the second 
vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric directly 
under the line shown on the face, and this has the effect of making the 
tuck stitch more pronounced. 



In Fig. 4 it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by 
having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the tube, 
and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them on 
the other side of the fabric, thus giving a total of four long latch needles 
in the circumference of the machine. To give the proper effect, the tube 
as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as to show 
the fancy effect at the correct place, for if the tube gets out of alignment 
at any point, this will affect the form of the pattern. 

Use for Trimmings 

In the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found 
extremely useful in trimming garments, particularly in the circular or cut 
trade, where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented at 
a moderate cost. At present the manufacturer has often to buy these 
touches of trimmings from the outside. The great advantage of doing the 
work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install 
such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary knit¬ 
ting machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics. 








74 


ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


Patterns With Colored Yarns 

Several other examples are given herewith of the application of this 
principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics suitable 
for narrow tapes or ribbons. Fig. 5 illustrates a fabric produced on a 
machine of still narrower dimensions, having only 12 needles in the cir¬ 
cumference of the machine. In this case the pattern effect is introduced 
by having several feeds of thread in the circumference; three different 
colors are employed and introduced in the order of one white, one black, 
and one tan all the way down the fabric, thus giving rise to a style of 
pattern which is very suitable for many purposes of the knitting manu¬ 
facturer, particularly of outer garments. There are three yarn feeds round 
the circumference of this machine and every revolution of the machine 
creates three courses in the three colors named. 

It will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a 
decided angle to the right, in place of being exactly horizontal, as would be 
approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter. This is one of 
the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds are used. 
They create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects appear at an 
angle. In many cases this is no disadvantage, but rather the reverse, as it 
takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces attractive effects 
in twill fashion similar to what can only be created in woven goods by the 
aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting of the cloth. 

Fabrics of the character shown in Fig. 5 are very useful for edging 
parts of knitting coats, jumpers or vestings, these edgings giving a suitable 
finish for the edges of the garment. In addition to the color feature, these 
bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth which 
will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied, enabling the 
garment to retain its shape. 


Knitted Cords 

Fig. 6 gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle 
knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder. There are two 
feeds, one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying 
green, the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue. The material 
is artificial silk and the cord, for it is nothing more, is employed for 
threading through certain garments which have a kind of open trimming 
through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the drawing 
together of the part. Very often these drawing together cords are pro¬ 
vided with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further ornamental 
feature. 

Fig. 7 gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same 
machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green. 
This sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be produced 
to match any color of ground garment. One bobbin is simply replaced with 
another on the machine, or both may be changed. In this pattern again 
a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the direction of the 
right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect. 

Use of Core Thread 

In some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic 
and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes. In this event 
it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run into the 
machine as the fabric is being knitted. The core thread is made of some 
strong, non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above the machine. 
That material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the center of the 



ELASTIC AND NON-ELASTIC NARROW FABRICS 


75 


circle of needles so that it is completely covered by the knitted fabric. Its 
use considerably strengthens the cord and makes it suitable for certain 
purposes for which it otherwise would not be satisfactory. 

Fig. 8 shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of 
machine where we have only four needles in the cylinder, these being worked 
Avith tAvo yarn feeds, one black and one Avhite, giving a one and one black 
and Avhite effect in the cord. For this style is is necessary to have a core 
thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the knitting 
proceeds. This makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be quite round 
in effect. 

The smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle 
by an arrangement such as is supplied Avith the Union Special seA\dng 
machine, Avhere the latch needle Avorks by poAver, enters its loop and takes 
the neAv thread, Avhicli it draws through the old one, thus making an end¬ 
less chain of loops in a very rapid manner. These strings are used as the 
ground Avork of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine. 



THE ABBOTT PRESS, NEW YORK 













